Little Hunk, West Face, 5.9-5.12a

Little Hunk, West Face, 5.9-5.12a

Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 34.02741°N / 116.15313°W
Activities Activities: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing
Seasons Season: Spring, Fall, Winter
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview/Approach

Dow leading Torturer's Apprentice, 5.10b**
Dow leading Torturer's Apprentice, 5.10b**

There is a group of formations lying behind Echo Rock that is labeled the Candy Bar area.  One of these is a long formation named Little Hunk.  Little Hunk has a broad south facing wall, the right side of which is named the Solarium.  The left side is named the West Face although most of the routes at this left end receive more south facing sun exposure than west facing.  The Hunk has its greater selection of interesting routes on its North Face, which is just around the corner from the West Face and also features several popular roof climbs on its East Face.

The West Face is no doubt the least popular of these four Little Hunk walls.  That being said, it features the tallest routes on the formation one of which follows the longest diagonal dike climb in the park, Trespassers Will Be Violated, 5.10cR** (160’!).  Torturer’s Apprentice, 5.10b**, is a fully bolted climb that crosses Trespassers dike just to the right of where it starts.  Torturers is another tall climb with several slab and face moves at the grade, therefore the recommendation in Miramontes guide.  Most all of these nine routes are given recommendations in his local guide.  However the guide has them all listed as “mixed” climbs whereas most are fully bolted.   The routes on the left end are best descended by walking off the dome’s west end.  There is a fixed 60m rope rap servicing the middle routes.

Park at the large Echo Rock parking area.  Head around the right side (east) of Echo Rock and straight for Little Hunk in the distance to the north.   Head to the left (west) end of the formation.  Before you reach the north face, turn right into a bush filled canyon of sorts.  The dike that is the route Trespasser's Will Be Violated is the most obvious feature on this southwest facing wall.   Three routes start to the left of it, three to the right and several more at the right end of this face.  

Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the Southwest Wall

Go for Broke- 100’-5.9*/

Crash Course- 100’-5.10b/

Trespassers Will Be Violated- 160’-5.10cR**/

Torturer’s Apprentice- 110’-5.10b**/ They have this listed as a trad route in Miramontes most recent edition, but it is a sport route that requires a trad anchor to top rope or bring up a 2nd.  The 110’ is the climbing length but you can rap with a true 60m rope, however it is a gear anchor.  You must walk off the long slab at the west end of the formation after cleaning the anchor.  Six clips. The first two are below the diagonal dike that extends the length of the face.  Up to the dike is chossy face climbing.  After crossing the dike the rock improves.  The crux is midway via slab.  Typical Jtree 5.10 slab moves, not much for the fingers, the crux is mantling and smearing. The last few meters are a bit cruxy as well on lessor quality rock again.  Cruxes were well bolted. Take C4#.5 on down to set up a gear belay up and left under a block.  Dow

Gun Shy- 110’-5.11b*/

Official Rubber Tester- 130’-5.12a*/

Groundhog Day- 100’-5.11c*/

Compassion of the Elephants- 90’-5.10c**/

Connie’s High Step- 130’-5.10c/