Having a ruptured ACL didn't help on this climb. It is loose, yet awesome.
Standard SW Chimney Route with Dave (he led). Tough climbing at the bulge crux, took me 4 attempts to find the right footing and pull over it. Glad to finally stand on top of this after getting turned back by weather 10 years ago.
Glad this choss pile is in the books. Amy led very well. I made it in my typical ugly fashion.
Submitted LH one day after doing Dallas Peak. Exhausting sequence, but worth it! Great weather, but start of climb = cold in the shade, even in July. Two lengthy wonderful sustained 5.8 or so pitches. Interesting loose scramble in between.
First shot- We got to the Cross MTN TH September 1st and woke up at 5am only to see clouds everywhere and two other groups going up..so we bailed and did something else that day.
Second shot- We started hiking at 4:30am on September 3rd with clouds in the sky but no other people. We arrive at the base of the South Chimney Route (way easy to find) at sunrise. We broke the first pitch up into two pitches. The chimney was burly and the rock was so cold. We did the 3rd class traverse pitch rope up and place pro (so sketchy with loose rock). We had some issues figuring out where the summit pitch started, but just look for the piton. The bulge was interesting and wet and cold, but after that the climbing was easy. Missed the anchors on the top so I made a belay close to the summit. Amazing summit! Worth the choss and effort. The rappels down were trivial. I would not even attempt this hunk of rock if someone else was on the route.
This formation & climb had been on my mind for years. Opportunity finally came up to give it a go. Left TH @ 10.23 after a late night the night before. Ominous-looking clouds overhead gave us pause, & it took them subsiding before we finally committed to the climb. Rock not as bad as some areas, though (Fisher Towers come to mind), & crux sections solid enough with good pro' (bring a #4 Camalot for the start of P3). Summit fits the formation- airy, loose, & surreal. Views phenomenal (though fire-caused smokey skies marred it somewhat). Descent quite possibly harder than the climb- terribly thought-out rap' anchors meant one of the parties shortly before us ended up leaving their rope (virtually impossible to pull through rings)- I was going to attempt to return the rope, but when we had 2 unsuccessful attempts at rope retrieval (& associated prusiks back up to the anchor- that SUCKED), we returned the other rope to its former, fixed, position, I rap'ed off of it, & just left it. If a future party familiar with rap' anchor set-up could extend the anchor with additional chains/quick-links, as well as maybe a dedicated rap' ring, that would be a HUGE community service! Great day with a great partner.
2 or 3rd winter ascent. . . who knows. amazing
Beautiful day, amazing rock tower from the distance, especially the first pitch was very loose, higher up the rock got better. Felt strange to lead it and not to trust any holds... summit has amazing views, a really old sign in log.
2nd time: 7/31/20 - one climb, felt so easy this time.
7/12/09 - I climbed Lizard Head the morning after my wedding in Yankee Boy Basin, a kickoff to a great honeymoon! Our buddy who led it for us snuck a bottle of champagne up in his pack! What an awesome climb!
9/16/17 - Led for Kevin. Cold, little bit of snow and ice. Bad case of the screaming barfies on the first pitch!
A link to our TR.
It was a cold morning with the first pitch in the shade. There's definitely loose rock but we felt it was manageable as long as you're careful. We got ice and snow at the crux bulge on the final pitch, gave it a distinct alpine flavor. Very rewarding summit with fantastic views and great weather!
One of Colorado's classic summits. Luckily, the steepest pitches are also the best rock quality. The middle 3rd/4th class pitch is horribly loose, so beware of other parties.
I wrote up a description on Mountain Project with pitch by pitch beta. Route Description
not horrendously loose anymore, did with a group of 5 and even picked up a guy up there who was solo to make a big old group of 6
The rock was some of the worst I've been on, and I like loose adventure routes. Still worth it though, but I won't go back!
It is loose - to say otherwise is dishonest. It isn't that bad though - some care and good route finding will get you through provided that 5.8 isn't your limit.
Don't forget your climbing helmet. Watch out for natural rock fall at the base of the rock in the early morning when the sun begins to heat the rock.
Amazing climb. Don't pay attention to those who say its loose....its alpine after all! My partner got sick on the way up so I ended up doing a roped solo climb of the peak. Highly recommended.