McCannster - Sep 27, 2021 6:34 am Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2021
Cool peak!
Climbed this with Al and Derek; we got Al up this thing so the rest of the 13ers are in the bag for him. Had a hot shot pilot buzzing us at the summit in a small plane. Continued over to Black Face and Pt 11302. Wonderful fall day.
BigRob - Feb 23, 2021 5:09 am Date Climbed: Aug 31, 2019
Good Times with good friends.
Having a ruptured ACL didn't help on this climb. It is loose, yet awesome.
Standard SW Chimney Route with Dave (he led). Tough climbing at the bulge crux, took me 4 attempts to find the right footing and pull over it. Glad to finally stand on top of this after getting turned back by weather 10 years ago.
theREALCarpeDM - Aug 22, 2016 11:42 am Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2016
Standard SW chimney
Glad this choss pile is in the books. Amy led very well. I made it in my typical ugly fashion.
Submitted LH one day after doing Dallas Peak. Exhausting sequence, but worth it! Great weather, but start of climb = cold in the shade, even in July. Two lengthy wonderful sustained 5.8 or so pitches. Interesting loose scramble in between.
Alex Wood - Sep 4, 2012 12:52 pm Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2012
chossAradBRO
First shot- We got to the Cross MTN TH September 1st and woke up at 5am only to see clouds everywhere and two other groups going up..so we bailed and did something else that day.
Second shot- We started hiking at 4:30am on September 3rd with clouds in the sky but no other people. We arrive at the base of the South Chimney Route (way easy to find) at sunrise. We broke the first pitch up into two pitches. The chimney was burly and the rock was so cold. We did the 3rd class traverse pitch rope up and place pro (so sketchy with loose rock). We had some issues figuring out where the summit pitch started, but just look for the piton. The bulge was interesting and wet and cold, but after that the climbing was easy. Missed the anchors on the top so I made a belay close to the summit. Amazing summit! Worth the choss and effort. The rappels down were trivial. I would not even attempt this hunk of rock if someone else was on the route.
Diggler - Jun 28, 2012 6:26 pm Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2012
finally!
This formation & climb had been on my mind for years. Opportunity finally came up to give it a go. Left TH @ 10.23 after a late night the night before. Ominous-looking clouds overhead gave us pause, & it took them subsiding before we finally committed to the climb. Rock not as bad as some areas, though (Fisher Towers come to mind), & crux sections solid enough with good pro' (bring a #4 Camalot for the start of P3). Summit fits the formation- airy, loose, & surreal. Views phenomenal (though fire-caused smokey skies marred it somewhat). Descent quite possibly harder than the climb- terribly thought-out rap' anchors meant one of the parties shortly before us ended up leaving their rope (virtually impossible to pull through rings)- I was going to attempt to return the rope, but when we had 2 unsuccessful attempts at rope retrieval (& associated prusiks back up to the anchor- that SUCKED), we returned the other rope to its former, fixed, position, I rap'ed off of it, & just left it. If a future party familiar with rap' anchor set-up could extend the anchor with additional chains/quick-links, as well as maybe a dedicated rap' ring, that would be a HUGE community service! Great day with a great partner.
noahs213 - Jan 1, 2012 11:05 pm Date Climbed: Dec 30, 2011
Winter Ascent
2 or 3rd winter ascent. . . who knows. amazing
Liba Kopeckova - Sep 27, 2010 12:20 am Date Climbed: Sep 26, 2010
nice summit, bad rock
Beautiful day, amazing rock tower from the distance, especially the first pitch was very loose, higher up the rock got better. Felt strange to lead it and not to trust any holds... summit has amazing views, a really old sign in log.
2nd time: 7/31/20 - one climb, felt so easy this time.
SarahThompson - Jul 21, 2009 1:04 am Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2009
Honeymoon Kickoff
7/12/09 - I climbed Lizard Head the morning after my wedding in Yankee Boy Basin, a kickoff to a great honeymoon! Our buddy who led it for us snuck a bottle of champagne up in his pack! What an awesome climb!
9/16/17 - Led for Kevin. Cold, little bit of snow and ice. Bad case of the screaming barfies on the first pitch!
It was a cold morning with the first pitch in the shade. There's definitely loose rock but we felt it was manageable as long as you're careful. We got ice and snow at the crux bulge on the final pitch, gave it a distinct alpine flavor. Very rewarding summit with fantastic views and great weather!
utclimber - Jan 8, 2008 12:47 pm Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2003
Southeast Chimney
One of Colorado's classic summits. Luckily, the steepest pitches are also the best rock quality. The middle 3rd/4th class pitch is horribly loose, so beware of other parties.
I wrote up a description on Mountain Project with pitch by pitch beta. Route Description
The rock was some of the worst I've been on, and I like loose adventure routes. Still worth it though, but I won't go back!
atg200 - Mar 25, 2006 6:30 am Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2003
Southeast Chimney
It is loose - to say otherwise is dishonest. It isn't that bad though - some care and good route finding will get you through provided that 5.8 isn't your limit.
Route Climbed: Southeast Chimney Date Climbed: Oct 15, "05
Amazing climb. Don't pay attention to those who say its loose....its alpine after all! My partner got sick on the way up so I ended up doing a roped solo climb of the peak. Highly recommended.
McCannster - Sep 27, 2021 6:34 am Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2021
Cool peak!Climbed this with Al and Derek; we got Al up this thing so the rest of the 13ers are in the bag for him. Had a hot shot pilot buzzing us at the summit in a small plane. Continued over to Black Face and Pt 11302. Wonderful fall day.
BigRob - Feb 23, 2021 5:09 am Date Climbed: Aug 31, 2019
Good Times with good friends.Having a ruptured ACL didn't help on this climb. It is loose, yet awesome.
chicagotransplant - Sep 28, 2020 7:27 am Date Climbed: Sep 27, 2020
Battle of the BulgeStandard SW Chimney Route with Dave (he led). Tough climbing at the bulge crux, took me 4 attempts to find the right footing and pull over it. Glad to finally stand on top of this after getting turned back by weather 10 years ago.
theREALCarpeDM - Aug 22, 2016 11:42 am Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2016
Standard SW chimneyGlad this choss pile is in the books. Amy led very well. I made it in my typical ugly fashion.
PaulK - Jul 10, 2016 1:44 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2016
Conquered Lizard HeadSubmitted LH one day after doing Dallas Peak. Exhausting sequence, but worth it! Great weather, but start of climb = cold in the shade, even in July. Two lengthy wonderful sustained 5.8 or so pitches. Interesting loose scramble in between.
Alex Wood - Sep 4, 2012 12:52 pm Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2012
chossAradBROFirst shot- We got to the Cross MTN TH September 1st and woke up at 5am only to see clouds everywhere and two other groups going up..so we bailed and did something else that day.
Second shot- We started hiking at 4:30am on September 3rd with clouds in the sky but no other people. We arrive at the base of the South Chimney Route (way easy to find) at sunrise. We broke the first pitch up into two pitches. The chimney was burly and the rock was so cold. We did the 3rd class traverse pitch rope up and place pro (so sketchy with loose rock). We had some issues figuring out where the summit pitch started, but just look for the piton. The bulge was interesting and wet and cold, but after that the climbing was easy. Missed the anchors on the top so I made a belay close to the summit. Amazing summit! Worth the choss and effort. The rappels down were trivial. I would not even attempt this hunk of rock if someone else was on the route.
Diggler - Jun 28, 2012 6:26 pm Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2012
finally!This formation & climb had been on my mind for years. Opportunity finally came up to give it a go. Left TH @ 10.23 after a late night the night before. Ominous-looking clouds overhead gave us pause, & it took them subsiding before we finally committed to the climb. Rock not as bad as some areas, though (Fisher Towers come to mind), & crux sections solid enough with good pro' (bring a #4 Camalot for the start of P3). Summit fits the formation- airy, loose, & surreal. Views phenomenal (though fire-caused smokey skies marred it somewhat). Descent quite possibly harder than the climb- terribly thought-out rap' anchors meant one of the parties shortly before us ended up leaving their rope (virtually impossible to pull through rings)- I was going to attempt to return the rope, but when we had 2 unsuccessful attempts at rope retrieval (& associated prusiks back up to the anchor- that SUCKED), we returned the other rope to its former, fixed, position, I rap'ed off of it, & just left it. If a future party familiar with rap' anchor set-up could extend the anchor with additional chains/quick-links, as well as maybe a dedicated rap' ring, that would be a HUGE community service! Great day with a great partner.
noahs213 - Jan 1, 2012 11:05 pm Date Climbed: Dec 30, 2011
Winter Ascent2 or 3rd winter ascent. . . who knows. amazing
Liba Kopeckova - Sep 27, 2010 12:20 am Date Climbed: Sep 26, 2010
nice summit, bad rockBeautiful day, amazing rock tower from the distance, especially the first pitch was very loose, higher up the rock got better. Felt strange to lead it and not to trust any holds... summit has amazing views, a really old sign in log.
2nd time: 7/31/20 - one climb, felt so easy this time.
SarahThompson - Jul 21, 2009 1:04 am Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2009
Honeymoon Kickoff7/12/09 - I climbed Lizard Head the morning after my wedding in Yankee Boy Basin, a kickoff to a great honeymoon! Our buddy who led it for us snuck a bottle of champagne up in his pack! What an awesome climb!
9/16/17 - Led for Kevin. Cold, little bit of snow and ice. Bad case of the screaming barfies on the first pitch!
Nice Axe! - Sep 17, 2008 10:35 pm Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2008
A beauty! Southwest ChimneyA link to our TR.
scotthsu - Sep 17, 2008 2:31 pm Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2008
sweeeet! SW chimney standard route (5.8)It was a cold morning with the first pitch in the shade. There's definitely loose rock but we felt it was manageable as long as you're careful. We got ice and snow at the crux bulge on the final pitch, gave it a distinct alpine flavor. Very rewarding summit with fantastic views and great weather!
utclimber - Jan 8, 2008 12:47 pm Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2003
Southeast ChimneyOne of Colorado's classic summits. Luckily, the steepest pitches are also the best rock quality. The middle 3rd/4th class pitch is horribly loose, so beware of other parties.
I wrote up a description on Mountain Project with pitch by pitch beta. Route Description
gremlin - Oct 24, 2007 1:49 am
normal routenot horrendously loose anymore, did with a group of 5 and even picked up a guy up there who was solo to make a big old group of 6
Flex - Dec 19, 2006 8:18 pm
I like the loose ones!The rock was some of the worst I've been on, and I like loose adventure routes. Still worth it though, but I won't go back!
atg200 - Mar 25, 2006 6:30 am Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2003
Southeast ChimneyIt is loose - to say otherwise is dishonest. It isn't that bad though - some care and good route finding will get you through provided that 5.8 isn't your limit.
Mountain Jim - Feb 7, 2006 11:54 am
Route Climbed: Standard Route Date Climbed: Sept. 7, 1988Don't forget your climbing helmet. Watch out for natural rock fall at the base of the rock in the early morning when the sun begins to heat the rock.
iceisnice - Oct 15, 2005 4:57 pm
Route Climbed: Southeast Chimney Date Climbed: Oct 15, "05Amazing climb. Don't pay attention to those who say its loose....its alpine after all! My partner got sick on the way up so I ended up doing a roped solo climb of the peak. Highly recommended.