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5880 Hits
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71.06% Score
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1 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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50.78000°N / 115.35°W |
Route Type:
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Mountaineering |
Season:
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Summer |
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Time Required:
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A long day |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.7 (YDS) |
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Difficulty:
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III |
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Grade:
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III |
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Overview
Nice ridge climb. After joining the SW face, the rock becomes horrible in spots, but the angle is low.Getting There
Follow the popular Burstall Pass trail until you climb through the woods and come out into a hanging valley of sorts. Birdwood will be above you to the north. Bushwack (minor) through the woods to gain the scree leading to the base of the ridge.Route Description
Begin on the climber's left side of the ridge and go up ledges and low-fifth grooves to eventually regain the ridge. At some point, you'll probably want to start belaying.Follow the ridge in its entirety. At a steeper bit, a 5.7 pitch will be encountered. There is at least one piton in place under an overlap.
Essential Gear
Alpine rack including a selection of pitons down to knifeblades; these will be useful for many of the belays. Two hammers thus very useful.Some cord may be needed to fix rappels for the descent.
External Links
Mike Warren's trip reportSome photos from the climb
Descent
From the summit, follow the summit ridge south for about 250m. You will descent a little and (ideally) pass a bolt just after a notch. Depending upon the route you took up the SW face, you may have topped out here. A little bit (~40m) south of here is a notch and a rock horn. Looking west through this, you will see a gully. There will probably be lots of tat here, as this is the first rap. 60m takes you into a scree gully. Follow this down and (skier's) left and cross over the edge of the gully. Downclimb or rappel diagonally south-ish, where another scree gully leads descender's left.This ends at another steep gully (more tat) which you can rappel. More scree leads to a final rappel (fixed pitons) and a little more downclimbing to gain the scree below the west face. Walk south and find a way through the short cliffbands (stay tight against the Birdwood side of the pass) and back to the start and the Burstall Pass trail.
An alternative might be to descent the NW ridge.