Lizzy's Ridge

Page Type
Route
Location:
alberta, Canada, North America
Route Type:
Mountaineering
Season:
Summer
Time Required:
A long day
Difficulty:
III
Rock Difficulty:
5.7 (YDS)
Grade:
III

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Lizzy's Ridge
Created On: Feb 12, 2007
Last Edited On: Feb 12, 2007

Overview

Nice ridge climb. After joining the SW face, the rock becomes horrible in spots, but the angle is low.

Getting There

Follow the popular Burstall Pass trail until you climb through the woods and come out into a hanging valley of sorts. Birdwood will be above you to the north. Bushwack (minor) through the woods to gain the scree leading to the base of the ridge.

Route Description

Begin on the climber's left side of the ridge and go up ledges and low-fifth grooves to eventually regain the ridge. At some point, you'll probably want to start belaying.

Follow the ridge in its entirety. At a steeper bit, a 5.7 pitch will be encountered. There is at least one piton in place under an overlap.

Essential Gear

Alpine rack including a selection of pitons down to knifeblades; these will be useful for many of the belays. Two hammers thus very useful.

Some cord may be needed to fix rappels for the descent.

External Links

Mike Warren's trip report

Some photos from the climb

Descent

From the summit, follow the summit ridge south for about 250m. You will descent a little and (ideally) pass a bolt just after a notch. Depending upon the route you took up the SW face, you may have topped out here. A little bit (~40m) south of here is a notch and a rock horn. Looking west through this, you will see a gully. There will probably be lots of tat here, as this is the first rap. 60m takes you into a scree gully. Follow this down and (skier's) left and cross over the edge of the gully. Downclimb or rappel diagonally south-ish, where another scree gully leads descender's left.

This ends at another steep gully (more tat) which you can rappel. More scree leads to a final rappel (fixed pitons) and a little more downclimbing to gain the scree below the west face. Walk south and find a way through the short cliffbands (stay tight against the Birdwood side of the pass) and back to the start and the Burstall Pass trail.

An alternative might be to descent the NW ridge.