Lloyd’s Rock, 5.9-5.10d

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California, United States, North America
Trad Climbing
Spring, Fall, Winter
1174 Hits
79.04% Score
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Lloyd’s Rock, 5.9-5.10d
Created On: Mar 13, 2012
Last Edited On: Feb 28, 2013


RR Does it Again, 5.10dRR Does it Again, 5.10d

Lloyd’s Rock offers just another of many warm south facing winter options down Lost Horse Road. It is a small feature located in an area more specifically known as Lost Horse Valley. Lost Horse Valley is an open expanse of desert located up a wash at the end of Lost Horse Road in Jtree. Many find their way to Lost Horse Valley to pose atop Aiguille De Joshua Tree, a small (30’) granite spire that sits out in the middle of the desert floor. Lloyd’s Rock is conveniently located on the way to Aiguille De Joshua Tree and offers two exceptional 5.9 crack pitches, albeit short ones (50’): Flawless Fissure and Friend Eater. Lloyd’s Rock is basically a huge fractured clean block amongst a bunch of rubble and is easy to spot on approach.
Aguille De Joshua Tree

Drive to the end of Lost Horse Road. There is a sign marking service vehicles only that leads further down the road. At this sign park at a pullout on the right and cross the road looking for a marked narrow trail. Follow this trail southeast along a rising pile of rubble called Atlantis on your left. There is good climbing on the shaded side of Atlantis, but on this south facing side it is mostly rubble. At about half a mile you will notice (photo included) a distinguishable clean sun baked block on your left at the base of the hill with several nice splitters in it. This is Lloyd’s Rock.

Route Description(s)

Micronesia, 5.10d

Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the Block

  • Flawless Fissure- 5.9/**
  • I like this route quite a bit. It is more technical then just hand jamming to get up a wide start which is the crux. The second half goes easy for the grade. Both of the 5.9's here are worth doing. There is a slung block for a rap or you can easily walk off skiers left. Dow

  • Lizard of Ahh’s- 5.10c/*

  • Friend Eater- 5.9/*
  • Although one lessor star in Miramontes guide book, this pitch is better than Flawless. Start in the same corner and move out right in the hand crack making a dramatic transition out over the arête with little to no feet. A perfect hand crack leads to the top from there. Dow

  • RR Does it Again- 5.10d/

  • Micronesia- 5.10d/*
  • Bit of a tough start for lead, so we tr'ed it, something I rarely do but maybe worth doing on this one. Good to lead next go around I believe. Kind of a lay-back to smear/balance move. Good cam/pod to protect the crux. Fun cruiser after that. Dow

    External Links

  • Joshua Tree National Park Including Map.
  • Campsites