Got to just before fixed ropes
So, the beautiful and perfect summit day finally arrived 7 years after my first attempt. This time the weather was stunning and it was an easy, straight forward climb in perfect conditions!
Climbed in May 2013 with a local guide. Local guide was all confidence and no skill. The list is long but the worst of all was when he climbed onto a very obvious cornice on the summit ridge and punched in a wobbly stake, clipped in and told me to come up. No way I was going up there! On the way down we passed a group going up, four people jumarring up a single fixed line made of hardware store plastic rope, bouncing away..... I found out later that we had not made the true summit anyway, which was on the other side of a tricky notch. In hindsight I'm glad we didn't try it!
A nice climb up Lobuche. The lower rocky slopes were a little tricky in plastics, but once on snow the climbing was all good!
Small expedition, only 2 people.
After 4 days in a tent, around 100 altitude meters above High Camp, we decided to give up and descend. Snow and rain and a thin layer of ice covering everything made it impossible to climb.
Next try will definitely be during a clear and cool autumn day!
We summited the true summit of Lobuche East with clear blue skies at 9:15 AM after a start from high camp at the lake around 16,500' at 3:00 AM.
The summit party consisted of Bob Nokoff and myself, with Gelu Sherpa and Buddha Tamang from Mountain Monarch.
Initially I mistook Lobuche West for Lobuche East.
Duo with Samduk Dorje Tamang. We reached BC at 23th November and climb up to High Camp near hidden lake (below Awi Peak). Start from High Camp at 2 o'clock night, two hours climb to 'Crampon Point' and next one-and-half hour to summit ridge. But turn back from this point because i got sick (high temperature). So, may be next time.
No more people at the mountain, only one guy was climbed 'False Summit'(alone) in previous day (i think it was doctor from Periche).
An Aussie, Ian Hatchett, and myself hooked up in Dingboche a couple weeks earlier, climbed Imja Tse, and went on to Lobuche. We ascended straight up to the ridge from the path along the Khumbu Gl and set up our tents. Next day we went up to where the ridge ended at the summit ridge, at which point we ate lunch and descended since it was a whiteout and we had no views any longer. Nothing beats the view I had earlier though, of Everest and Nuptse rising into view as we climbed!! And no other people nor fixed ropes on the route - so beautiful...
When we reached the BC the weather deteriorated and we had snowfall for about 36 hours. Is was not cold, so the snow was very wet and melted rapidly. Nevertheless, we waited the last night for better weather. By midnight, the sky had cleared and we decided to start at about 3 or 4 o'clock via the ABC to the summit. We experienced only minor difficulties on the frozen debris and ice-covered rocks in the lower section´of the climb. By sunrise we had reached the snow and ascended rapidly under excellent conditions. The steeper sections were assured with fixed rope. Finally, as a party of ten climbers, we decided to stop at the East Summit of the Lobuche East summit ridge at about 6000m (~100m above 'False Summit') at 10 o'clock. The ridge to the actual summit was/is like a snow cornice and would have been too risky to cross with this much people. So perfect would have been 2-3 climbers, to provide also a stable ridge backwards. The descent was fast and in the rocks section we're able to find a dry path to 'just walk down'. Reached the BC at about 2 pm.
Had much fun and an amazing view from the East Summit (~6000m).
Really enjoyed this climb - perfect snow conditions, perfect weather and strightforward climbing. Set off from High Camp at 1:00am and arrived on summit at about 7:30am - superb views including of Everest. Highly recommended.
This began as a family trek with my Nepali wife, one of her brothers and our daughter and her partner. At Dughla, 1-2 days from Everest Base camp we split and I headed off to Lobuche East base camp. Three days later, in the snow and cloud giving a complete whiteout, Ang Pasang Sherpa and I summited after 5 hours of dodging the 36 Polish people making a reality TV show!