Dow Williams - Dec 11, 2017 1:05 pm Date Climbed: Dec 9, 2017
Lumping Fat Jennie, 5.8*
If you do the right start variation it is an interesting 5.8. The start off the deck is an off balance move to gain fingers and gear above. Then a few more fun moves to gain the easy hand crack. Can use the same summit block west side crack to set up top ropes for any of these three routes to the right of the main wall. Can of course rap the main wall when done with a 60m rope. A few small wires or micro cams to get started, then a few hand pieces.
Dow Williams - Dec 11, 2017 1:01 pm Date Climbed: Dec 9, 2017
Gunks West, 5.10b*
Start off the large boulder. You can easily stem and clip the lone bolt on the route and then the crux slab moves are immediate (sandbagged) to gain a short lay back and then easy hands to the top. Can build a gear belay in the same west side crack of the summit block to top rope the route. A few off set brassies or micro nuts right above the bolt and a few hand pieces from there.
Dow Williams - Dec 11, 2017 12:57 pm Date Climbed: Dec 9, 2017
Hhecht, 5.7*
Probably not deserving of a star compared to most of the Miramontes suggestions in his guide, but worth doing if you are doing all the routes on the wall. A slab move or two to get started in the obvious right side crac to run-out slab on the summit block. You can do a medium gear belay on a crack on the west side of the summit block to top rope with. Two or three single hand sized pieces and a couple more for your belay or top rope.
Dow Williams - Apr 15, 2011 1:32 pm Date Climbed: Apr 10, 2011
Locomotion Rock
Jumping Jehoshaphat better than Leaping Leaner I thought, enjoyed the chimney shart. Nothing to right home about. Sunny pitches. With Joe K.
Dow Williams - Dec 11, 2017 1:05 pm Date Climbed: Dec 9, 2017
Lumping Fat Jennie, 5.8*If you do the right start variation it is an interesting 5.8. The start off the deck is an off balance move to gain fingers and gear above. Then a few more fun moves to gain the easy hand crack. Can use the same summit block west side crack to set up top ropes for any of these three routes to the right of the main wall. Can of course rap the main wall when done with a 60m rope. A few small wires or micro cams to get started, then a few hand pieces.
Dow Williams - Dec 11, 2017 1:01 pm Date Climbed: Dec 9, 2017
Gunks West, 5.10b*Start off the large boulder. You can easily stem and clip the lone bolt on the route and then the crux slab moves are immediate (sandbagged) to gain a short lay back and then easy hands to the top. Can build a gear belay in the same west side crack of the summit block to top rope the route. A few off set brassies or micro nuts right above the bolt and a few hand pieces from there.
Dow Williams - Dec 11, 2017 12:57 pm Date Climbed: Dec 9, 2017
Hhecht, 5.7*Probably not deserving of a star compared to most of the Miramontes suggestions in his guide, but worth doing if you are doing all the routes on the wall. A slab move or two to get started in the obvious right side crac to run-out slab on the summit block. You can do a medium gear belay on a crack on the west side of the summit block to top rope with. Two or three single hand sized pieces and a couple more for your belay or top rope.
Dow Williams - Apr 15, 2011 1:32 pm Date Climbed: Apr 10, 2011
Locomotion RockJumping Jehoshaphat better than Leaping Leaner I thought, enjoyed the chimney shart. Nothing to right home about. Sunny pitches. With Joe K.