Nearly epic adventure even with nearly optimal weather conditions. Feel free to message me for details up King's Trough route. Icefields Discovery did the flight in for us and they are amazing!
David Lussier and Dan Morton as our team guides, and other 5 climbers.
Flew onto the Quintino Sella Glacier May 14th and off May 25th.
Climbed Logan in group of 5 (3 clients and 2 guides from Mountain Madness) in a 3-week push, with awesome weather (we only had one "sort of" weather day on the way up).
This is an awesome mountain. The scale of it will leave you confused and amazed. Everything is bigger and farther than you think. It's also a true wilderness experience as Logan doesn't see many climbing parties. We saw 3 parties coming down the first week, then had the mountain for ourselves the last two weeks.
Climbed the route in balmy weather. Just had a couple of layers of long underwear. I didn't even put my fleece on at the top and only had my undergloves on. Not what we were expecting and quite in contrast to Cyrair's experience who summited a few days later (there is an error in the summit dates).
Great mountain and quite an enjoyable ski tour for the most part. Took 12 days up and down but we got lucky as we experienced only 3 days of stormy weather, two of which were on rest days anyways. To be safe, plan for at least 20 days on the mountain.
I took 3 times before to be able to reach de top. The weather was weird and very cold, windy for the summit push (Minus 40c + 50km/h wind
Eight of us, 4 from Seattle and 4 from Boulder, Co spent 26 days making the 1st ascent of Independence Ridge in July of 1964. The climb was steep and very exposed from the beginning with most of the difficulties being encountered from the bottom to 14800'. We set about 11,000 feet of fixed line for protection, which saved lives on more than one occasion and had five camps. The line went straight up the ridge to the lower plateau then curved upward and easterly under the NE Pk then under the West Pk to the summit. In places the ridge was heavily corniced in both directions and the coup de grace was a two foot wide 200 yard traverse of the knife edged ridge at the 14200 level with huge 80 degree 8000' drops off both sides, one of the greatest adrenaline rushes I've experienced in the mountains in over 45 years of climbing!
At 17200 we were treated to a seven day long storm with gusts over 80 mph and temps under -35F. We reached the summit in beautiful clear weather (which we had precious little of) on July 4, thus the name Independence Ridge. The return down the ridge was extremely dangerous and took three days in very heavy new snow and poor visibility.
The trip out was an expedition in itself as we did what we believe was the first traverse from the N side of Logan up the Hubbard and down the Kaskawulsh Glaciers to Kluane Lake pulling a 500lb sled and taking ten days. The river crossings were imposing and close encounters of the wrong kind with Grizzlies added to the excitement. All in all the climb and hike out was a phenomenal expedition with no injuries and a great attitude by everyone on the trip.
Perfect weather window so we pushed it. A spectacular route, particularly the first 2/3rds.