Climbed Autumn Ledges with Kostas on March 2-3, 2008 in what we believe is the FWA of the route. The approach and first pitch to the fir tree required crampons and ice axes but above that we were in rock shoes the whole way to the summit.
In reference to poorboy44's post above: he was definitely off route, see route page for more info.
got my head bashed in by a rock let loose by the party above...that was a little too close for comfort! Other than that, it was a great day and a nice climb.
via North Ridge. Great climb!
Climbed the North Ridge with Anthony B. Hiked in on Saturday via the Meysan Lakes trail, breaking trail with snow up to about 12 inches deep until we gained the ridge below the notch. Gained the ridge and found a good bivy location just above the notch. Sunday we climbed to the summit, belaying and simul-climbing as necessary. Descended the wrong chute and used 4 rappels to get down to the lakes. Found another bivy location and stayed here for the night. Monday morning we hiked out to the car, wading through snow up to waist deep in many places until the snow depths became much more enjoyable below 10K. Great weekend in the mountains!
Climbed this route August 8 - 13, 1999 with Em Holland. V 5.9 A3
Gotta love the scree slog.
Climbed with Mike Zimmerman from campsite at Grass Lake
Great break in for sierra peaks.
Did the north ridge in a grueling day. Snow was not an issue as the route was in great condition. It was cold in the shade but marvelous in the sun. One of the best days I have had in the mountains.
If you want some full on alpine action here is your route. Climbed this with Scotty Nelson (poorboy44). Never had my fingers freeze together before trying to climb rock. Ended getting benighted on the sandy legdes and finished it off the next day. Cool ice climbing at the top of the couloir!
This big chute above Grass Lake is a horrible scree slog. Didn't mind it too much going down except that members of my party would lose control sometimes and slide. After getting up the chute, we should have avoided traveling on the ridge to get to the peak. Could have traversed lower down and then up to the peak.
Warm-up for McAdie. Really ugly scree slope. Pictures
Decent snow conditions but loose rock above the snow. Minor rockfall danger (due to snow melting) - one did come down a long way. Some false summits near the top. Climbed with Andrew (sierramtngoat) and Mammen and Truman.
climbed the N. ridge w/ Brian from UCLA; roped up for two pitches and soloed the remainder. afterward began the traverse to Peak 3985m.
Camp was cold the night before (18 deg. F in our tent) so the snow condition was perfect for cramponning. There was some rock fall from the cliffs to the right of the chute. The upper chute had melted out so we stuck to the left and had little trouble with scree. At the plateau, we traversed NE around a few false summits and climbed a chute that would lead to the true summit. No summit register could be found.
Summited via the North Ridge. Morning was beautiful but after 2-3 hours of climbing conditions turned to whiteout. Last 5-6 pitches were complicated by 2-3 inches of snow plastering the rock. Mid 5th class is definitely harder with a 20 pound pack, mountaineering boots and fresh snow. Otherwise awesome route.
Lot of scree on this route. Summit is pretty cool.
One of the best winter routes I've ever done.
From Tuttle Creek with a bivvy below the plateau. A perfect day on top!