Longs Peak Climber's Log

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Alpinist

Alpinist - Mar 2, 2006 4:31 pm Date Climbed: Feb 25, 2005

The Trough

We attempted the summit from Black Lake but were moving much too slowly in winter with the heavy gear we brought with us. We turned back somewhere above the Keyhole route around 2:45pm. Next time I'll camp above Black Lake and take a day to acclimatize before the climb.

Attempted again in April 2009 but 2 ft of fresh snow and 50MPH winds created dangerous avy conditions. I never even stepped foot on the mountain. Hiked into Glacier Gorge and camped solo for the night and returned the next morning. That's the risk you take when you live out of state. You roll the dice, buy a plane ticket and hope for good weather. But it was not meant to be. Third times a charm?

RMdaytripsgrl

RMdaytripsgrl - Feb 27, 2006 3:16 am Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2005

Route: Keyhole  Sucess!

Being much more experienced, this time was much "easier", dare I say, but still a challenge (how can it NOT be?)...With friends from the OC, they did really well. Scary weather this time, had to boogie down from boulderfield.
Next on Long's agenda: winter ascent via loft route!

RMdaytripsgrl

RMdaytripsgrl - Feb 27, 2006 3:08 am Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2002

Route: Keyhole  Sucess!

Left at 2am, returned to car at around 4pm - What a long day! The Trough/Narrows/Homestretch took everything I had and I totally bonked on the way out. Was the most difficult climb we had done at that time. Beautiful weather the whole day, an unusual gift on Longs.

Snidely Whiplash

Snidely Whiplash - Feb 23, 2006 4:09 pm Date Climbed: Jul 26, 1983

Keyhole Route  Sucess!

Left at 2:30 A.M. Beautiful moonlit night. Made the Keyhole by 6:00, and the summit by 8:30. The Park Service still considered the climb "technical" due to the huge amount of snow and ice on the route. 1983 was a late season. Lots of snow probably helped in the Trough, but the Homestretch was a lot more challenging with ice clogging up the upper rocks. A little scary coming down. Back at car by noon. It was smart to go early. All parties after mine and another all turned around due to storms that hit around 9:30 A.M.

foreverwild

foreverwild - Feb 21, 2006 12:29 am

Just short

Climbed solo in mid Novermber 2004 only person to proceed beyond Keyhole, Trough was slow breaking trail alone, turned back on Homestretch due to poor snow and a broken crampon.

peakrat76

peakrat76 - Feb 19, 2006 7:00 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 1973

Notch Couloir  Sucess!

Climbed via the Notch Couloir with a bivouac on Broadway. A classic route on one of Colorads's great peaks. Perfect ice with little rockfall. Descended via the Keyhole route.

Mountain Jim

Mountain Jim - Jan 29, 2006 8:55 pm Date Climbed: Jun 25, 1960

Route Climbed: Keiners Route  Sucess!

I first climbed Longs in 1960. I've since climbed it 92 more times via many different routes and during all 12 months of the year.

Kiefer

Kiefer - Jan 26, 2006 12:00 pm

Route Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: August 1994, 1996, 2000  Sucess!

Summited this mountain 3-4 times and have been to Chasm Lake more times than I can remember.

Luckily, I've never had bad weather on top.

I've always run into pleasent weather.

Tried summiting in Winter but only made it as far as the actual Keyhole. Sunrise was beautiful over Mt. Lady Washington.

Cpt Kahuna - Jan 12, 2006 2:50 am

Route Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: September 12, 2005  Sucess!

Another Iowa Flatlander and I started out early (0030) to make sure that we beat any late season T-storms. We met quite a few people on the trail (mostly passing our slow rear ends), but most of them turned around at the keyhole due to high winds. As we only get out to Colorado once a year and felt comfortable with the conditions, we continued on. After numerous breaks to "catch our breath", we made the summit. We enjoyed the great views and were the last ones off the summit that day. On the way down, we commented that the we were lucky that the crowds everyone talks about were not present. At the ranger station we found out that only 20 people had summited that day. That night it snowed enough to keep the "Non-Technical" folks like us off the mountian. 14er #11

rkymtn

rkymtn - Jan 8, 2006 11:53 pm

Route Climbed: Trough Date Climbed: March 5, 2005  Sucess!

Haliku and I had been talking about this one for a while. It was a long day, but reaching the summit was well worth the effort. Haliku lead most of the way and kicked steps like a champ. While ascending, we’d stop occasionally to look down the Trough to catch views of Glacier Gorge and the Spearhead - stunning.

1mvertical

1mvertical - Jan 4, 2006 5:23 pm

Route Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: August 4, 1999  Sucess!

Crowds, crowds, crowds. This was my 3rd ascent of Longs.

colint

colint - Dec 30, 2005 11:44 pm

Route Climbed: keyhole Date Climbed: june 2002  Sucess!

This was the first somewhat challenging climb I did. I have dreams about this mountain, but now they are on the other side. When I return to Colorado I hope to hit Kiener's, Dream Weaver on Meeker, and eventually some Diamond routes. Big Talk.

Livelife4Summits

Livelife4Summits - Dec 29, 2005 1:57 am

Route Climbed: the Loft Date Climbed: August 8th, 2003  Sucess!

This was the 1st Colorado 14er of my 7 day outing in this state, during which I tackled 11 peaks. Great first attempt, setup an illegal camp site in the backcountry, met up with some guys from the midwest en route, and together we joined forces to tackle this route and this peak. Crowded on the way down.

CODave

CODave - Dec 27, 2005 11:16 am

Route Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: August 23, 2003  Sucess!

First 14er summit.

hawkman

hawkman - Dec 21, 2005 6:56 pm

Route Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: Aug 2004  Sucess!

Dragged my mom up for her 50th bday. Perfect weather, great route. Looking forward to trying other routes (Loft and Keiners).

Vagabond Manifesto

Vagabond Manifesto - Dec 14, 2005 4:03 am

Route Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: June 30, 2002  Sucess!

This was the first fourteener I climbed, so it's a sentimental favorite. We camped at the Boulderfield the night before. Wildfires in Idaho made it slightly hazy, but the views were still great. The perch at the top of the Trough is one of the neatest places I've ever been. Longs is a truly magnificent mountain.

timfoltz

timfoltz - Dec 8, 2005 1:11 pm

Route Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: Summer of 2003

Got 3/4 of the way up the trough, and got caught in a afternoon thunderstorm. We decided to turn around, and head back down. Should have started early, and not gone with such a big group as they were very slow.

timfoltz

timfoltz - Dec 8, 2005 12:45 pm

Route Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: Summer of 1999  Sucess!

Classic Climb. Made it to the top with 3 generations. Me (10) Dad (45) and Grandfather (75).

Bill Reed

Bill Reed - Dec 7, 2005 9:46 pm

Route Climbed: The Keyhole Date Climbed: August 24th 2003  Sucess!

2nd 14er for Chris and I, 2nd climb of Long's for Scott. Stayed Goblin's Forest-then Boulderfield before summiting on Sunday. On the summit at 8:30am.

Awesome!

jonnyboots

jonnyboots - Nov 30, 2005 3:52 pm

Route Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: June 29,2005  Sucess!

Drove from Indiana nonstop to Estes Park...Camped in Goblin's Forest that night...Camped in Boulder Field the second day...Successful to the summit and back down the third day...It was cold(12F) but bearable, very strong winds, storm at summit about 12:00pm, visibility was very little to none, ice on all the rock...had to use crampons and pick from the keyhole to summit and back to keyhole...very challenging

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