Longs Peak Climber's Log

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dmoorecs - Oct 21, 2002 2:09 pm

Route Climbed: North Face Cable Route Date Climbed: October 16th, 2002  Sucess!

"Climbed Long's via the North Face Cable Route. Weather was windy and very cold, making for a brief stay on the summit itself. The route itself was beautiful, but technically unremarkable, except that continual care needs to be taken in the upper 3rd and 4th class sections to avoid a nasty slip. I would also recommend sticky-rubber climbing boots or approach shoes that are crampon-compatible. I unfortunately had to make the climb in plastic boots, which caused quite a bit of flailing on the technical pitches. As a slab climber, I would rate this route as 5.4 or easy 5.5. There was some ice on the 5th class sections, but it was easily traversed. The dihedrals provide secure hand and foot holds all the way up, and you never have to smear out onto an open face. If completely iced up, I could envision this route being several grades higher... I think I caught it during one of the last favorable days before real winter sets it. All in all, an outstanding and classic route. I would recommend it to anyone with some roped climbing experience. "


miztflip - Oct 9, 2002 2:24 pm

Route Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: October 8, 2002  Sucess!

I have done this route before but found it very sporting with a thin layer of snow and ice on the more exposed sections. The alpine start proved essential as the afternoon storms rolled in like clockwork.


rmjwinters - Oct 5, 2002 9:15 pm

Route Climbed: The Loft Date Climbed: July 9 1999  Sucess!

Great and beautiful mountain. Too bad it's scarred from orange bulleyes. Sheesh!


John - Sep 30, 2002 8:06 pm

Route Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: Sept 28, 2002  Sucess!

Hiked with Becca as a snow storm threatened: we saw precipitation in 3 directions, heard thunder 4 times, and saw lightning once. It was the first time for both of us so we both wanted to make the top and just couldn't turn around once we made it to the Homestretch. It snowed for a bit on the descent but still managed to turn into a gorgeous day. About 65% of the people I ran into turned around at the Keyhole or somewhere else short of the summit. I counted 10 people who made the top. Here's a short TR for more information.


bearbnz - Sep 28, 2002 5:35 pm

Route Climbed: Keyhole Route Date Climbed: Summer 1990  Sucess!

Hiked up the tourist trail, and cruised over to look at the Diamond. Wish I had brought some gear! Continued up to the trough, and on to the top.


ccoash - Sep 18, 2002 2:31 pm

Route Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2002  Sucess!

Awesome climb! My first time to the summit of any mountain. Boy that trough was long!

colin_c82 - Sep 15, 2002 7:35 pm

Route Climbed: Stetners Ledges to Keiners. Date Climbed: August 23, 2002  Sucess!

Climbed up the lower east face via Stetners Ledges-*classic*. finished the route via Keiners. Lonely summit at about 2 pm. No electrial storms. Weird, huh?


shanrickv - Sep 14, 2002 4:28 pm

Route Climbed: Keyhole Route Date Climbed: August 6, 2002  Sucess!

I had the honor of climbing Longs Peak with fellow member Alan Arnette, who is an accomplished 8000 meter peak climber. It was one of the most difficult things that I ever did, but was one of the greatest days of my life. Coming from sea level in Maryland, I had been in Colorado for almost a week, so I was somewhat acclimatized. Still, the altitude really tuckered me out. I felt that the Trough was the most difficult part of the climb. It seemed endless and I will forever refer to it as "the place where knees go to die." Despite the difficulty of the climb for a novice like me, the summit view was well worth the effort.

Lost Creek Farms

Lost Creek Farms - Sep 6, 2002 11:35 am

Route Climbed: Key Hole Route Date Climbed: July 2002  Sucess!

Fantastic climb


wayneaflick - Aug 23, 2002 9:14 am

Route Climbed: Key Hole Date Climbed: July 30, 1999  Sucess!

I started at 1:15 AM. At least two people left before me. The hike up to the boulder field was done at night. I stopped at daybreak to watch the sunrise and eat an orange. What a beautiful scene. The diamond face was red. Crossing the boulder field was easy as was the keyhole. The trip to the trough was a minor scramble as was the trough itself. The rock at the top was the first challenge. I went over the right side having failed trying the left. It was easier than it looked. They say the narrows is exposed, I don't know, I didn't look down. The home stretch (see photo), was a lot easier than it looks, but it's still class 3. Spent about 10 minutes on the summit with the 100 or so others, over 107 passed me on the trail before the boulder field. I gave up the orange on the summit. The trip down was uneventful except for the hallucinations. I could swear there is a gravel pit at the Chasm Lake trail. I arrived back at my car at 7:30 PM. Long day


tonyo - Aug 20, 2002 3:24 pm

Route Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: August 14, 2002  Sucess!

My 15 year old son and I summitted at 8:00 am in 60 mph+ winds and VERY cold. We were woefully unprepared for the cold, wearing only hiking pants, t-shirts and fleece. The cold wind dried out my eyes by the time we made the summit, and I was practically blind coming back down. Many people after us turned around because of the wind, even after completing the trough.


rhlaird - Aug 3, 2002 10:21 am

Route Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: July 8, 2000  Sucess!

Training hike for a summit attempt on Rainier in August. Great scramble. Met lots of great people. My first fourteener.

The Flying Dutchman - Aug 1, 2002 12:05 pm

Route Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: July 31, 2002  Sucess!

Yesterday I did Longs Peak., It took me 2 hours and 49 minutes to reach the summit. My start time was 7:05 A.M. I made it to the top at 9:54 A.M. Going up the trough, two teenaged boys asked how fast I was going. They remarked that they had started at 4:30 and one of them called me a "machine". Also, I passed a trail "runner" (or so he claimed himself to be one), who said "I can tell by looking at you that you're not going to make it". Not only did I beat him up Longs, but then I proceeded to summit both Estes Cone and Twin Sisters (so "ha!") The total hike was 29 miles with a 9,500-foot elevation gain. I am pleased with the support I got from many people, including a family from northern Va. and a father and son from North Platte, Neb. As I came down Twin Sisters, one twelve (13?)-year old kid said "you know what....you're crazy." Thinking "hey, I haven't heard that one today", I told him thank you and that I'd take the remark as a compliment. When I got to the Lily Lake Vis. Ctr., it was 6:35P.M. I was proud of my accomplishment and felt a little better about the rough week I had been having.I even had the energy to go to the pub with friends from the Czech Republic.

mrkgrysngr - Jul 23, 2002 3:59 pm

Route Climbed: Keyhole and returned though the Loft Date Climbed: 7/20/2002  Sucess!

July 20, 2002 my friend and I made our second attempt at Long’s Peak. Last year we were weathered out at the Keyhole. It had become my obsession to finally climb the mountain. After a quick word of prayer we started our trek up the Mt. at 2:30 in the morning. The weather report was favorable and said the thunderheads would not form until about 3-4:00 in the afternoon. Using our lamps we made it to the Boulder Filed in about 2:45. We rested for about 5 minutes at the Keyhole and proceeded through. Now we were entering uncharted territory. The Ledges were not nearly as tough as I had imagined. There was exposure, but no real danger as long as you were just watching what you are doing. It was at the Trough that I began to feel some cramping in my left hamstring. I had been drinking plenty of water, but did not realize how much I was expelling due to sweat. We stopped for about 5 minutes in the middle of the climb up the Trough and I ate some cheese and nuts. I also drank about 8 oz. of orange juice and 20 oz of water. I prayed again asking that the Lord would not let me come this far to have been stopped by something like a cramp. After the short rest we continued and there were no problems the rest of the day. Praise the Lord! The Narrows and Home Stretch were quite interesting. Neither was as bad as I had imagined. The summit was ours! What a feeling to have finally conquered the “Peak.” It is as beautiful as they say. There was not a cloud in the sky except for the smoke raging from Elk Mt. Fire. It was our return trip that was the challenge. After clearing the Home Stretch going down we saw two other fellows coming from a different route on their way up. After chatting with them we chose to return the way they had come and do the loop through the Notch and up the Loft. That was very hard climbing! Some possible class 4. Much loose scree and big rocks. They said it was only about 600 ft. through the Loft, but it seemed like a mile. We topped out at the saddle between Long's and Meeker and proceeded down to Lake Chasm. Clouds had started forming and we heard our first thunder at the top of the Loft. We picked up the pace! The trail was now much easier. Now back on the main trail, it seemed like forever, getting back to the trailhead. It took 10:15 to do the whole trip even counting the 30 minutes we spent on the top of the Peak. All in all it was a WONDERFUL day!


kilimanjaro1 - Jul 22, 2002 7:45 pm

Route Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: July 9, 2002  Sucess!

Took off at 2AM and took 14 hours roundtrip moving at a moderate slog pace. I had just arrived in Colorado the afternoon before and a few hours later I was climbing- so had no acclimatization time. No significant weather encounted, just some light rain and hail on descent, but I was approaching treeline at that point so it wasnt a real threat. Overall a really fun climb. Got to boulderfield around sunrise, left climbing poles at keyhole hut and picked up on the way back( they are useless between keyhole and summit) followed the bullseyes through the trough. ( No snow in trough- a very dry season). Popped up Homestretch and enjoyed the view from the massive summit. Made summit at 9:30 AM and was able to get lower before afternoon storms. I think this is a good climb for self evaluation... I saw some people quit at narrows and others quit at homestretch because it was too difficult for them or exposure fear. I felt it was a long challenge but not dangerous or scary if you were careful- but I would not want to be coming down Homestretch when it is wet and slick.

MntnMnstr - Jul 22, 2002 12:06 pm

Route Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: July 20, 2002  Sucess!

What an amazing mountain! I arrived at the summit at 6:45 where I enjoyed about 10 minutes of solitude and near complete silence. I sat on the large stone block just adjacent to the summit sign. There was not even a breath of wind and all I heard other than my own heart beat was a high-altitude bee that buzzed by my left ear and then disappeared. What a remarkable climb and experience. (BTW - Not a trace of snow in the Trough.)


Hendere - Jul 14, 2002 2:23 pm

Route Climbed: keyhole, Keyhole Ridge Date Climbed: october 2001, August 2004  Sucess!

I left way to early (2AM). The Boulder Field was not much fun in the dark, couldn't tell where I was going, just kept heading up. After the Keyhole, I could see and the scramble was fun. The Trough was full of hard snow that I couldn't seem to avoid, so I was glad that I brought an axe. Huge summit with no one else there. I passed about 10 or so people on the way down. Great trip that I highly recommend.

Climbed again in August 2004 by the Ridge Route. We climbed it in seven pitches, only two were sketchy at all (5.5-5.6). Fun stuff!

BoniniG - Jul 11, 2002 7:41 am

Route Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: 29 June, 2002  Sucess!

Long's was fun. Bit of a disappointment though... only took 10 hours... a bit less really, and not as hard as I was expecting... thought best case, maybe 12 hours... probably 15... worst case 19). Did have a little head ache @ the top, but no altitude sickness (two advil took care of it). Did drink about 110 oz's of water by the time I summited though... not unusual for me to drink so much. Plus they say altitude sickness is really more a case of dehydration. Thank heavens for that water filter on the way down. I had read a couple of books... I was very well prepared. I stayed fueled too... 100 to 200 calories every hour. I usually feel good when I do that.

I forgot gloves, and as I was on my 5 points of contact most of the way down off the top, I could have used them. Did not need sunglasses... did not wear them.... nor sun screen, but I didn't stay up there long either... only 1/2 hour. Took several pictures. Very beautiful. Wore heavy weight running tights... a full length running bra, a short sleeve T-shirt, a long sleeve T-shirt and a jacket... I only took off the jacket and the long sleeve T-shirt for a short time. All micro fiber stuff. Ensure your jacket is hooded... the hail on the way down pelted the back of my neck.

Started @ 0420 (later than I wanted). It took me 4 hours to get to the key hole... took a lot of pics on the way up. Sunrise was gorgeous. Like the books say, the hike is really two hikes... to the keyhole and then after the key hole. Took me four hours to get to the keyhole and then two hours to get from the key hole to the top... went fairly slow as I found some one to go with and was a little spooked about going alone. Then about an hour to get back down to the key hole. The hardest part is the trough (loose gravel and rocks). The easiest part is the home stretch (but you spend a lot of time on your butt on the way down). And the narrows are the scariest (but very short section really). You'll see. Ran the last three miles or so.... lost my jacket on top (was tied loosely to my back). Started to hail (hard but small) @ 1300.... then rained pretty hard... was very cold with no jacket (only day of rain in the whole month I think... go figure). Made it to the bottom by about 1415. The run was the best part... felt like a deer! Was pretty high from making it to the summit so easily, so the run was already adrenaline full... really felt awesome. Saw a ton of Elk.... even heard them trumpet or whatever its called. Very cool! Spent a lot of time just hiking around in Estes Park before and after the Long's Peak Experience... you must do that... some beautiful trails there (though quite crowded). Bought the T-Shirt. You have to buy the T-Shirt! Can't wait to do more climbing... hopefully more technical stuff.


ocelot - Jul 9, 2002 8:57 pm

Route Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: July, 1972  Sucess!

This peak was the second 14er of my carreer. I climbed it with a girlfriend long before I made it to the top of Whitney. We were the only ones up there - wow!


charles97 - Jul 9, 2002 5:41 pm

Route Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: August ?, 1998  Sucess!

Sorry for the late entry here since I did this so long ago, but as I was filling in summit logs for some other 14ers I did recently, I thought I'd chime in and 'virtually bag' this one as well. Longs was the toughest 14er I did, but mostly because I had a cold that day. We started around 6:45 and summitted at 14:30. The boulder field killed me. Walking around Lady Washington at 13,000+ feet for so long drained all my energy.

Then we got through the Keyhole and the weather turned on us. Howling winds of over 30 mph, cold temps and drizzling with thunder in the distance. We decided to press on since there was no lightning near us. Fortunately, the weather stayed away, and we were able to summit. My least favorite part was the trough. Going down it and knowing you have to regain all that elevation was not pleasant, and I was in no mood for it.

But my spirits all changed when we reached summit. My headache went away and I was able to breathe again. I wished we could've taken a different path down, retracing the steps got boring really quick.

All in all, I was very pleased to be able to get to the summit on my first try. I've heard some horror stories of people being turned back by weather. We were very lucky indeed.

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