Looking down from midway up...

Looking down from midway up...

Looking down from midway up the bolt ladder on P3 of Honeymoon Chimney route. Note the calcite encrusted sandstone. Shirley is belaying me from a great little belay ledge. You rap from the summit to that ledge in one shot with two ropes thus bypassing the crappy anchor atop P3 (Feb. 5, 2005).
rpc
on Feb 10, 2005 1:18 pm
Image ID: 89433

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colbyjw

colbyjw - Mar 4, 2005 9:50 pm - Voted 10/10

Thank You!

I don't think words can describe the joy you have given me by taking this picture. I am a pretty weak offwidth and chimney climber, and I can breath a big sigh of relief seeing that there is gear to protect that third pitch massive chimney. All I have heard about that big chimney are horror stories.

rpc

rpc - Mar 7, 2005 1:26 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Thank You!

Colby,



do you mean this "gap" section on this (3rd) pitch? The actual chimneying portion (or stemming off of both walls) is pretty easy (5.6 - 5.7) - even that section has a couple of fixed pitons. Once it becomes too wide, that's where the bolt ladder (or .11 -) face/arete begins. The bolts here (mix of bolts and fixed pitons) all (except for like one maybe two) looked solid. I guess if you have any concerns might want to bring a screamer or two if you're gonna free it. I know you've done some hard core stuff on Castleton (N. Face I think?) so I don't think this would give you any issues.

If you'd like a closer look at the crux face, I think I have other photos that might show some detail of the holds etc.. that I did not post. Let me know, I can find them and email them to you.

Thanks for visiting and the kind remarks!!

radek

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