Especially if Martin "promises" a 5.6 pitch and then leads right around the slanting 5.8 crack and then pulls the rope tight and left around the 20-ft block above it!! :-)
At least Martin WAS leading (and led it well) and not me. Thanks, buddy! It was an excellent entry to the climb.
I agree. I would recommend this pitch over the ledge traverse above the chockstone described in Selected Climbs. It gives you an additional pitch of nice climbing on the route.
WE did this start, it looks a lot better that the jungle start.. or ledge traverse. it was fun though!
Cool. Nice job Matt! Did ya try the variation?
I didnt notice it. WE did have a reall good look at the boving roof, didnt look all that bad what mid 10, good hands and feet.
Yeah, it looks sweet! I heard it was 10b face to get to the undercling then the crack is sustained 5.9.
we should have givin it a go, I have bad luck with guessing the grade, I thought mr clean on lower castle looked 5.8..no way