bolts lead up to the big friend placement?
Yes, there are four bolts shown, leading to the overhanging crack. The picture was taken while hanging from a bolt. These shots were scanned from some old 35mm, sorry about the quality.
these are the kinds of photos I look for esp. when planning a climb that pushes my ability!!
The last pitch is exciting but not too hard if climbed the original 5.5 C1 way. Of course if you plan on freeing it, I can see how that would push your abilities!
Yeah, it'll be a while before I have any thoughts of freeing anything remotely as hard (like say 3 or 4 lifetimes into the future).
I would very much like to give this a shot the "original way" - the 5.5 C2- way you mention on the description page. So what are the aid portions that make it a bit harder than C1? Can you get away with just a "regular" free climbing rack (supplemented with repetitive pieces of course) + a cheat stick? Or is there any mandatory "hook moves" etc? Is it the couple of crappy small cam placements (2 lobes only engaged - that rokdansir mentioned somewhere) that give it the C2- rating?
Sorry for the stupid questions, but my aid experience is limited to some C1 type stuff mostly at Smith (....now comes the laughter from those who know Smith and aid esp. easy aid don't mix :).
Many thanks for any/all info.
I think the C2 - rating comes from some awkward moves maybe. A big glorified free rack will get you up this - we didn't have or use a cheater stick ourselves. It's a fun climb - go do it!
Can't get the thought of climbing it out of my head now - now just need to find an extended wknd.