Lost Arrow Spire Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-17 of 17

wdimpfl - Dec 22, 2017 5:20 am Date Climbed: Nov 15, 1970

Tyrolean Return  Sucess!

Louis Reichardt and I rappelled to the notch and climbed to the tip. I tied a parachute cord to the end of our first rappel rope to pull it back to the summit and return to the valley rim by tyrolean traverse.

Vitaliy M.

Vitaliy M. - Oct 15, 2012 5:30 pm

Lost Arrow Spire Direct  Sucess!

Was a real fun route (LASD). Had aid trickier than the Prow in a few spots, and had some true mandatory OW. Over 4 days with Amy as our first completed to the top wall. Led pitches 1,2,3,4,8,9,10,11,14. Tyrolean traverse was real fun.


nattfodd - Oct 19, 2011 1:22 pm Date Climbed: Oct 17, 2011

LA Direct, solo  Sucess!

Climbed over 4 days, solo. Lots of fun and a stunning summit.

hancockclimber - Oct 18, 2011 11:53 pm Date Climbed: Oct 16, 2011

A great day in the valley  Sucess!

Area was a little crowded at the bottom, but still was a fantastic climb in the end


Diggler - Jul 6, 2011 5:24 pm Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2011

fucking crazy!  Sucess!

Did w/ Rusty Meyer. Left Camp 4 ca. 6.30. Primarily due to logistics, turned out to be an ALL-day affair. Climbing was very big wall-like, with a blend of moderate free, some tricky aid on P2 (which Rusty led), & even an honest-to-goodness 5.9 offwidth for good measure. The exposure was the real kicker- going from flatness (Valley rim) to PURE vertical, with 2,000 or so feet of exposure, is a major mind-fuck! As opposed to working ones way up a formation, 1 pitch at a time, slowly gaining exposure along the way, the way it usually works. The Tyrolean at the end of it was so cool- the perfect ending for a great day out! Thanks, Rusty, for being a good partner- I had a blast! Honestly one of the coolest adventures I've had, Yosemite or anywhere else. Got back to camp around 21.30. Full day!


jspeigl - Jun 20, 2010 11:21 pm Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2010

Fantastic Summit  Sucess!

Followed the tip route to the top of the spire. Perfect weather, awesome views, and huge exposure sum up the climb. Started from camp 4 at 3:30 A.M. after driving through the night from Los Angeles.


fatdad - Sep 14, 2008 4:08 pm

Lost Arrow Tip with tyrolean  Sucess!

I climbed this my first summer dirtbagging in the Valley at age 16. Pretty uneventful climbing is totally offset by the summit and the trouser filling tyrolean traverse to the rim. I'll carry that completely wild view of Yosemite Falls from mid-traverse to my grave.

highice - Feb 1, 2007 6:09 pm

night time tyrolean  Sucess!

got a late start, as two of us gals humped all that gear up to the top. I led all the P's. and we ended up doing the tyrolean traverse in the dark and in very high winds. not a good thing. spinning around in the dark almost gave me the barfies. I can imagine the show we may have given anyone 3000 ft. below with the spinning headlamp, if anyone were watching at 11 pm.


danbknox - Jul 1, 2006 5:12 pm Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2006

Climbed Lost Arrow Tip  Sucess!

Climbed up it with 4 good friends. We started at 5am from Camp 4, hiked up to the rim, rappelled down and did the 2 pitches of aid to the top. It was quite a view :) Someone had left a rap line from the rim so we used it as a backup on tyrolean back across.

After sending the first person across we figured out it is easiest if you keep the tyrolean pretty tight until you get most of the way out (as far as you can do easily with your hands). Then toss an ascender on the line, and have your buddies let out line from which ever side they are on. That way you do less jugging sideways, and more vertical jugging. Just a thought.


Rileywyna - Dec 18, 2005 8:31 am

Route Climbed: Lost Arrow Tip Date Climbed: May 2002  Sucess!

Climbed with my great partner Schaffer. Easy and fun climbing in an exposed place. Had a bit of an epic as my partner got hung up seconding the final pitch. With heaving packs, the hike, plus the mini epic. it made of a long day.


salad - Aug 2, 2005 4:49 pm

Route Climbed: Lost Arrow Tip Date Climbed: July 1997  Sucess!

Climbed this with Scott Nelson in 97. Great day, cept fer the stuck ropes.


rpc - Jun 14, 2004 12:07 pm

Route Climbed: Lost Arrow Tip Date Climbed: June 6, 2004  Sucess!

My wife and I climbed this route in two pitches. Climb of a lifetime!! Posted a TR: Lost Arrow Tip climb report.


bigwally - Aug 25, 2003 9:00 am

Route Climbed: Lost Arrow Spire Direct Date Climbed: Spring, 1979  Sucess!

Oh , what a Time it was. A time of aspiring to Big Walls, but yet with enough knowledge and self doubt to NOT venture onto The Captain, not yet....Three Grade V's that season with Wall Partner Jay Anderson. First was the Leaning Tower...then came Lost Arrow Direct. We had enough foreknowledge to take a long "cheater stick" to reach past the rounded out "Bat Hook" holes at the start of Pitch 9...and we had "conned" a Park Service Welder into fashioning some Bat Hooks for us!!!! Beautiful Route! Beautiful Climbing!! and I will neve forget the ever-descending rainbows that incessantly formed and floated down Yosemite Falls..( or the brutally cold and windy nights). It took us 3 days to reach the top, but we proceded with style and maintained composure throughout !! With the confidence and skill gained from The Arrow and the Leaning Tower, we proceded onto the greatest Adventure to that date.....The Prow, on Washington's Column !!! Another 3 day climb...with another Happy Story !!


Sharon - Jul 22, 2003 9:56 pm

Route Climbed: Lost Arrow Tip Date Climbed: September 23, 1994  Sucess!

Partners: Steve Reynolds, Jochem Becker, Beate Becker.

Petzl (brand) ascenders worked best for tyrolean; Jumar (brand) jammed frequently. Bivvy's before & after climb on Yos Point; the sparkling lights of the Valley were unforgettable in the moonlight. For the hike up & in, Steve used his big white haul bag as a pack. He told tourists he was heading to the top with his "golf bag"...& I suspect they really thought he was going golfing.

Night, then a thunder & rain storm, moved in shortly after we sequentially began the tyrolean back to the cliff rim. I'll never forget hanging in the middle of the tyrolean ropes, seeing Steve crouched alone on the summit, as lightning flashed. Then, trying to jug up the notch in a veritable waterfall. AUUUGGHH!!!! But, we all made it safely by the grace of God...and slept VERY well that night on Yos Point.


kullaberg - Dec 1, 2002 7:32 pm

Route Climbed: 4 pitch aid affair from rim Date Climbed: twice in summer 1989  Sucess!

exhilarating. and somewhat scary. after all, tyroleans aren't on my agenda very often. the climbing is rather non-descript, but that doesn't matter, because all you're going to remember is that wicked tyrolean.

Craig Peer

Craig Peer - Oct 10, 2002 11:02 am

Route Climbed: Lost Arrow Tip Date Climbed: September 6, 1981  Sucess!

Climbed this awesome route with Tim Winiarski, Britt Reeves and Ken Taggart. What a scene - hiked in from the Tioga pass road and there were half naked girls everywhere ( a U. C. Santa Cruz nature study field trip - yeh baby )! And they said " oooh climbers ". Sent four of them out half way on the tyrolean traverse from the rim ( a tyrolean 1500' above the ground for their 1st climb - haha )! This is a must do climb as far as I'm concerned ( no guarantee you'll have naked girls - but you never know! ) including the tyrolean traverse!

Craig Peer

Craig Peer - Oct 10, 2002 10:54 am

Route Climbed: Lost Arrow Direct Date Climbed: April 13, 1980  Sucess!

This was my first big wall climb which I did with my friend and big wall mentor Dana Brown. Thanks to Dana and this climb I was inspired to launch a big wall climbing binge for the next 6 years. Thanks Dana. I only have one note in my old Roper Guide for this climb - " Excellent " ( despite being yanked straight out of the belay hole at the end of the 11th pitch in the pitch dark by a tangled / then untangled falling 2nd haul bag - then jugging that pitch in the pitch black with no headlamp after having to untie from the lead line and clipping into a spare rope 'cause I couldn't see to clean the damn pitch - holy shit !).

Viewing: 1-17 of 17
Return to 'Lost Arrow Spire' main page