Louis Reichardt and I rappelled to the notch and climbed to the tip. I tied a parachute cord to the end of our first rappel rope to pull it back to the summit and return to the valley rim by tyrolean traverse.
Was a real fun route (LASD). Had aid trickier than the Prow in a few spots, and had some true mandatory OW. Over 4 days with Amy as our first completed to the top wall. Led pitches 1,2,3,4,8,9,10,11,14. Tyrolean traverse was real fun.
Climbed over 4 days, solo. Lots of fun and a stunning summit.
Area was a little crowded at the bottom, but still was a fantastic climb in the end
Did w/ Rusty Meyer. Left Camp 4 ca. 6.30. Primarily due to logistics, turned out to be an ALL-day affair. Climbing was very big wall-like, with a blend of moderate free, some tricky aid on P2 (which Rusty led), & even an honest-to-goodness 5.9 offwidth for good measure. The exposure was the real kicker- going from flatness (Valley rim) to PURE vertical, with 2,000 or so feet of exposure, is a major mind-fuck! As opposed to working ones way up a formation, 1 pitch at a time, slowly gaining exposure along the way, the way it usually works. The Tyrolean at the end of it was so cool- the perfect ending for a great day out! Thanks, Rusty, for being a good partner- I had a blast! Honestly one of the coolest adventures I've had, Yosemite or anywhere else. Got back to camp around 21.30. Full day!
Followed the tip route to the top of the spire. Perfect weather, awesome views, and huge exposure sum up the climb. Started from camp 4 at 3:30 A.M. after driving through the night from Los Angeles.
I climbed this my first summer dirtbagging in the Valley at age 16. Pretty uneventful climbing is totally offset by the summit and the trouser filling tyrolean traverse to the rim. I'll carry that completely wild view of Yosemite Falls from mid-traverse to my grave.
got a late start, as two of us gals humped all that gear up to the top. I led all the P's. and we ended up doing the tyrolean traverse in the dark and in very high winds. not a good thing. spinning around in the dark almost gave me the barfies. I can imagine the show we may have given anyone 3000 ft. below with the spinning headlamp, if anyone were watching at 11 pm.
Climbed up it with 4 good friends. We started at 5am from Camp 4, hiked up to the rim, rappelled down and did the 2 pitches of aid to the top. It was quite a view :) Someone had left a rap line from the rim so we used it as a backup on tyrolean back across.
After sending the first person across we figured out it is easiest if you keep the tyrolean pretty tight until you get most of the way out (as far as you can do easily with your hands). Then toss an ascender on the line, and have your buddies let out line from which ever side they are on. That way you do less jugging sideways, and more vertical jugging. Just a thought.
Climbed with my great partner Schaffer. Easy and fun climbing in an exposed place. Had a bit of an epic as my partner got hung up seconding the final pitch. With heaving packs, the hike, plus the mini epic. it made of a long day.
Climbed this with Scott Nelson in 97. Great day, cept fer the stuck ropes.
My wife and I climbed this route in two pitches. Climb of a lifetime!! Posted a TR: Lost Arrow Tip climb report.
Oh , what a Time it was. A time of aspiring to Big Walls, but yet with enough knowledge and self doubt to NOT venture onto The Captain, not yet....Three Grade V's that season with Wall Partner Jay Anderson. First was the Leaning Tower...then came Lost Arrow Direct. We had enough foreknowledge to take a long "cheater stick" to reach past the rounded out "Bat Hook" holes at the start of Pitch 9...and we had "conned" a Park Service Welder into fashioning some Bat Hooks for us!!!! Beautiful Route! Beautiful Climbing!! and I will neve forget the ever-descending rainbows that incessantly formed and floated down Yosemite Falls..( or the brutally cold and windy nights). It took us 3 days to reach the top, but we proceded with style and maintained composure throughout !! With the confidence and skill gained from The Arrow and the Leaning Tower, we proceded onto the greatest Adventure to that date.....The Prow, on Washington's Column !!! Another 3 day climb...with another Happy Story !!
Partners: Steve Reynolds, Jochem Becker, Beate Becker.
Petzl (brand) ascenders worked best for tyrolean; Jumar (brand) jammed frequently. Bivvy's before & after climb on Yos Point; the sparkling lights of the Valley were unforgettable in the moonlight. For the hike up & in, Steve used his big white haul bag as a pack. He told tourists he was heading to the top with his "golf bag"...& I suspect they really thought he was going golfing.
Night, then a thunder & rain storm, moved in shortly after we sequentially began the tyrolean back to the cliff rim. I'll never forget hanging in the middle of the tyrolean ropes, seeing Steve crouched alone on the summit, as lightning flashed. Then, trying to jug up the notch in a veritable waterfall. AUUUGGHH!!!! But, we all made it safely by the grace of God...and slept VERY well that night on Yos Point.
exhilarating. and somewhat scary. after all, tyroleans aren't on my agenda very often. the climbing is rather non-descript, but that doesn't matter, because all you're going to remember is that wicked tyrolean.
Climbed this awesome route with Tim Winiarski, Britt Reeves and Ken Taggart. What a scene - hiked in from the Tioga pass road and there were half naked girls everywhere ( a U. C. Santa Cruz nature study field trip - yeh baby )! And they said " oooh climbers ". Sent four of them out half way on the tyrolean traverse from the rim ( a tyrolean 1500' above the ground for their 1st climb - haha )! This is a must do climb as far as I'm concerned ( no guarantee you'll have naked girls - but you never know! ) including the tyrolean traverse!
This was my first big wall climb which I did with my friend and big wall mentor Dana Brown. Thanks to Dana and this climb I was inspired to launch a big wall climbing binge for the next 6 years. Thanks Dana. I only have one note in my old Roper Guide for this climb - " Excellent " ( despite being yanked straight out of the belay hole at the end of the 11th pitch in the pitch dark by a tangled / then untangled falling 2nd haul bag - then jugging that pitch in the pitch black with no headlamp after having to untie from the lead line and clipping into a spare rope 'cause I couldn't see to clean the damn pitch - holy shit !).