Lost Arrow Tip

Range of placements encountered on the Lost Arrow Tip route. Two "C2" placements included. The alien shown is the tiny "purple unit" - note that the two visible lobes are crap - only two of four lobes engage the rock (June 6, 2004).

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Dave Daly

Dave Daly - Jun 10, 2004 4:07 pm - Voted 10/10

Old Pin Scar?

By the Alien placement, it appears that old pin had been there at once. Any chance that a HB Offset Brassie would have worked there? Say a #6?

rpc

rpc - Jun 10, 2004 4:15 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Old Pin Scar?

Sorry - don't know. This was my 2nd "real" aid climb and have not used HB Offsets before....given how crappy that alien placement was, I'd be willing to experiment with something else.

yv - Jun 16, 2004 2:06 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Old Pin Scar?

I climbed the tip recently but didn't make a placement like this. Just off Salathe Ledge there's an old pin with a 3mm cord tied through it and jsut above that theres a thin crack. Is that where you placed the black alien? I reached up and got a good medium nut in a constriction in this crack.



The tip was easy goin' with all those brand new bolts. Aside from a few big cams in the fist/ow, I placed a total of one nut, one medium cam, plus a hook in that big jug at the traverse.

Craig Peer

Craig Peer - Jun 16, 2004 2:32 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Old Pin Scar?

I didn't make this placement either, but of course when I climbed it there were no Aliens!!

rpc

rpc - Jun 16, 2004 2:51 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Old Pin Scar?

my seq. off Salathe:

1 bolt; 1 old pin with 3mm cord; stick clip (long reach) a bolt above; move left onto 1" cam under a flake; place small Alien above (not very far); hook on lip of jug; clip hangerless bolt; clip another hangerless bolt; clip a fixed nut; then mostly bolts and pitons to top with 1 or 2 more gear placements.



Alien placement necessary?? probably not essential if you did not make it. i was not sure how to proceed to reach the hangerless bolt - that that gave me a few upward feet to where I realized I could place a hook.



I'm sure it's very mellow going for others. I was pretty tense as it was my 2nd aid lead.

Craig Peer

Craig Peer - Jun 16, 2004 3:03 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Old Pin Scar?

Pretty damn good for your 2nd aid climb I must say!!

rpc

rpc - Jun 16, 2004 3:05 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Old Pin Scar?

Thanks Craig.

....."tense" should be more like "scared shitless" for the first 30 feet of P2.

yv - Jun 16, 2004 5:46 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Old Pin Scar?

You stick clipped that bolt? Very ingenious! Ax Nelson and Jack Arnold would have been proud. You do know the story behind the first ascent?



I think the sequence for me was bolt, 3mm cord in fixed pin, medium nut, bolt, hook, rivet, rivet, several bolts/rivets, 3/4 Camalot under bulge, bolts. I remember a fixed hammered nut in there somewhere too.



Nice job on your second aid lead! It was my second or third pitch as well back when I first did it and it scared me too! The route has changed some in the last decade. There used to be a lot of mank and 1/4" rivets where there are now 3/8" bolts with hangers. But its still about the same difficulty overall.

rpc

rpc - Jun 16, 2004 6:07 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Old Pin Scar?

"You stick clipped that bolt? Very ingenious! Ax Nelson and Jack Arnold would have been proud."



oh well



"You do know the story behind the first ascent? "



yeah

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