This new (2 year old?) line is one of 4 or so new additions that penetrate the virgin face between White Satin
and Black Velcro
on the northeast face of the Smith Rock Group. It is clear that the route developers went through quite a bit of effort to ensure that it's smartly bolted and well cleaned (except final pitch which will only clean up after a few hundred ascents?? If ever...). This makes for a very enjoyable outing!
Approach as you would for the start of White Satin
or Sky Chimney
(200 feet left or south of Asterisk Pass). Route starts below an obvious chimney with a bolt 20 feet up.
P1 P3 P1 P2 P3 P2 P4
5.6, 150+ feet. Climb the easy chimney following bolts then out onto the left face. Don’t take the bolt line heading up the wall on the right or you’ll end up on the ledge below White Satin
& Sky Chimney
. Belay from one of the bolted anchors on the large ledge (“The Perch”), ideally you’ll go all the way to the start of P2 (right side of a large block sitting on the ledge).
5.10b, 70 feet. Move up the right side of the large block and pull a bulge on the wall above (crux). Traverse right following bolts and then up onto a small ledge with a bolted anchor.
5.10b, 90 feet. The best pitch of the route! Like Screaming Yellow Zonkers
but 200 feet off the deck – very cool! Follow bolts and nubbins all the way to a nice stance below a lower angle blunt arête.
5.9, 100 feet. Follow bolts up the chossy arête overcoming several bulges. Belay at the top of the buttress from a bolted anchor.
Hike 100 feet climber’s left along ridge top until able to hike down the loose gully (climber’s right). At bottom of gully, locate rap anchors for Wherever I May Roam
(climber’s left or west side of formation). Three single rope raps (we used a 70m but a 60m I think
works…tie knots). Bring you to base of WIMR
. Scramble over Asterisk Pass to get back to base of route.
12 quick draws. All belays are bolted. 60m or longer rope (if you rap down WIMR