Lost Rat Couloir Climber's Log

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chicagotransplant

chicagotransplant - Jun 1, 2014 9:14 pm Date Climbed: May 31, 2014

Ski descent  Sucess!

Solo ski descent of Lost Rat Couloir after skinning up standard route. Able to ski off summit pretty much continuously, one short rock band I had to cross. Good conditions, but developing a runnel that you have to watch out for near the bottom.

MattK

MattK - May 31, 2013 12:08 pm Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2011

Great day  Sucess!

Short and sweet. Caught a nice glissade from Grays-Torreys saddle.

belexes

belexes - Jun 9, 2012 4:48 pm Date Climbed: Jun 9, 2012

Lost Rat  Sucess!

Preparation climb for Elbrus trip in August. I climbed with some CMC members who will be heading to Rainier around the 4th of July. There's no snow in the uppermost reaches of the couloir, but there's still a fair amount lower down, though it is mushy and rocky. There was a mountain goat at the top of the couloir.

Woodie Hopper

Woodie Hopper - May 5, 2012 11:20 pm Date Climbed: May 5, 2012

Lost Rat  Sucess!

Good conditions- my first CO snow couloir route. Due to warm weather, the top ~100 feet at the top were melted-out, but that wasn't really a problem. Soloed en route to Edwards.

benners

benners - Jun 20, 2011 3:09 pm Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2011

Cool Route  Sucess!

Short and sweet, this route is a great way to climb Grays.

km_donovan

km_donovan - May 22, 2009 5:51 pm Date Climbed: May 22, 2009

Great Day  Sucess!

A little snow mid morning and saw a few wet slides go off in other parts of the basin when the sun hit. Had a great glissade from the Greys/Torreys saddle. Lots of post holing on the way out.

Mots010

Mots010 - Jun 23, 2008 12:24 pm Date Climbed: Jun 22, 2008

Lost Rat  Sucess!

Fun climb on the second day of summer. About 30ft near the top was melted out.

heather14

heather14 - Jun 15, 2008 8:40 pm Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2008

Perfect Day  Sucess!

Weather was great, conditions were perfect, partners were awesome! One of the local residents was even at the top waiting to greet us.

Niederbayer

Niederbayer - Jun 3, 2007 6:35 pm Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2007

nice climb

climbed up to Y , but was opting there for the third option (not described) - a narrow, steep and icy ravine going up to the right - shorter than the two other options, but more challenging

zachary_dc

zachary_dc - May 25, 2007 3:19 pm Date Climbed: May 23, 2007

Crazy Weather  Sucess!

Started out about a mile before the trailhead, where we had been camped for a few days. There was about 3 inches of fresh powder which made things a little interesting. The couloir was a fun climb, definately under rated i think. Cornice wasnt a problem and was easily passible. Summited and descended via Grays-Torreys saddle into at least a 700 ft glissade(sweet). Round trip ~ 8hours. Not less than an hour after we returned to camp it started snowing again, and we ended up leaving a day or 2 early.

Jason Konzak

Jason Konzak - Mar 6, 2006 6:49 pm Date Climbed: Mar 5, 2006

No walk in the park

My climbing partner and I selected this route as it seemed like an easier couloir route among the climbs we had considered. Overall snow conditions were excellent and weather was pleasant. Because the road to the trailhead is not maintained in the winter we snowshoed from the Bakersville exit which added to the mileage a bit. We found that the snow was the most stable in the middle of the couloir and the areas that clearly showed wind scouring were the least stable. Most of the trip reports I had seen are from spring so we knew things would be a little different but were surprised by the length and slope of this route. There were some areas that our inclinometer showed as 55 degrees. Exposure was not too bad but given the angle and thick freeze of the snow there were quite a few places where I was worried about the consequences of a fall. It would seem this is a good beginners route but if you're planning a winter ascent know that it is still a significant climb. We downclimbed the same way we came and glissaded the last quarter of the couloir. RT from Bakersville exit was approx 14 hours.

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