Very nice day of climbing with my buddy Mitch
Climbed there half a dozen times, including Bears Reach, East Crack, and others I don't recall
This was my latest trip (as of 4/18/05). Done numerous routes from Bottle Pop (5.7) to The Line (5.9)
never waited in the "line" for The Line and climbed it three times, livin right?
Climbed many routes since 1998. An amazing place to climb where almost every route is a "classic." Highlights include: climbing the line on a cold day with even a few snow flakes coming down. Brrrrr! Another highlight was climbing East Corner with a friend who is a Joshua Tree local and watching him deal with the steepness and tallness of the rock (Freak).
Followed on The Line. The first pitch is sustained, and it is a challenge getting past 20 feet off the deck. The final move over the overhang at the end of the 3d pitch (or 2d, in our case with a 60m rope) is solid 5.8 fun.
Nice warmup. The direct move from the top of the 1st pitch is fun and not wholly obvious.
First time at Lovers Leap and we loved it! We had never climbed rock like this before--dikes with discontinued crack systems; a very different feel from Yosemite Granite. We really enjoyed it--Corrugation Corner is definitely worthy of its five-star rating with wonderful stemming, mantling, traverses and great exposure on very solid rock. We did Corrugation Corner first thing in the morning on July 4th and had the entire route to ourselves.
Surrealistic Pillar was also a fun climb. The climb wanders and traverses in directions not exactly instinctual, but it is definitely all there. The Groove tops out on the same formation as Surrealistic Pillar. The Groove's crux comes right off the ground with a 5.8 high step move. The remainder of pitch one is rather sustained at 5.7 and ends at a nice bolted anchor on a series of small ledges. After traversing far left at the beginning of pitch two, the route mellows considerably to the top.
Started out on 1st pitch of Travelers (easy 5.7-ish) then worked RIP and Tombstone Terrace on TR. Did Haystack the second day - great route, very, very fun but don't even think about getting on it while another party is up there. A lot of moving roadblocks up there. Prep H intersects Haystack route at 1st belay ledge; use this to snake slow parties. If I had to do the 'stack again I'd bring 2 racks of nuts and hex's up to 2.5" - leave the SLCD's and run like the wind.
A lot of fun and challenging climbing. I followed on Haystack and The Line and realized it may be a while before I can lead a 5.9.
I led an easy route on Hogsback (Manic Depressive Direct 5.5) which seemed to be almost to easy to use gear. My friend followed in his Teva sandals. Fun climb though.
A fun, 2-plus moderate pitch climb on great granite. I had a blast!
Just did my first multipitch climb on Bear's Reach. The best time I have had on rock to date. I found the first pitch the hardest, probably because I was dealing with a lot of fear. I had a little to eat at our first belay station, and I settled down. The enormous amount of fear that had spiralled my brain lifted a couple of moves into the second pitch and turned into exhileration. I found Bear's reach perfect for my first multi, not very difficult, but it felt very exposed. Looks like there are a bunch of great climbs there. Watch the rattlesnakes on the walk down from the top.
Psychedlic Tree is a better line than The Line in my opinion, super fun moves to top out. Scimitar is awesome too, not as runout as Fantasia... And The Groove, fullon for 5.7 is my opinion, and load of fun. Surrealistic Pillar to Corrugation Corner a top 10 CA moderate route for me.
A great place with great rock. The food at the lodge is pretty good too.
One of my favorite crags. Excellent rock & access- & the dikes are incredible!!
Have spent many enjoyable spring & summer days here. My first lead up technical rock was up here (Pop Bottle), & some of my favorite rock climbs have been here- my favorites would be Bear's Reach (great rock, interesting & exposed), East Wall (the coolest traverse I've ever done!!), Corrugation Corner (sick exposure, but solid rock- fun the whole way), & the 1st pitch of Surrealistic Pillar (direct start- TR'd; maybe the best pitch I've ever done- everything from jams to lie-backs to smearing to a hand-traverse- awesome!!).
6.12.'4: Did Deception (great 2nd pitch!!) & Knapsack Crack (old pin only thing I clipped whole way, in hiking boots- fun climbing, good rock, stimulating exposure the higher one goes!!) on the Hogsback (1st time) with SPer Joe Dawson- fun day!
6.25.'5: led Haystack Crack, w/ Lara- even more fun leading (esp. the crazy-ass swing-out from the ceiling!!)
6.26.'5: led Harvey's Wallbanger Centre, w/ Lara- fun route, esp. the final lie-back/mantel!
7.1.'5: led East Crack (climbed w/ Eszter)- extremely fun route- 2nd pitch is steep, sustained, & great!
7.2.'5: led West Wall (climbed w/ Eszter)- first dihedral pitch (shared w/ Hospital Corner) was steep & fun- steep w/ good pro. 2nd pitch starts with a burly off-width leading to a fun chimney with a huge roof- turning it on the R (looking out) is wild!! One more easy (5.5?) pitch took us to directly below the Slash. Another pitch up the Slash (5.2) took us to the top of the buttress, & one more (variation of Dead Tree direct- 5.5? Took R-facing dihedral/crack system to easy face, traversing over to the L, to the exit terrain) took us to the top. Great climb (mostly the first 2 pitches- rappelling would be the best option after P2)!
10.7.'6: Finally completed The Line with Tri, after leading P1 earlier in the season with Eszter & bailing due to a storm moving in. Led P2 this time. Great climb! Turning the final roof in the dark was 'interesting!'
Came here with Joe, after we found out the night before the highway to Emerald Bay was to be closed the next day for some (running) races (we'd wanted to come back to Eagle Lake Cliff, where we'd climbed on Sat). Excellent choice!! Finally climbed Hospital Corner (led P2)- absolutely fabulous climb!! Certainly one of my favorite climbs at the Leap!! After that TR'd Arctic Breeze after Joe led it. Another great day climbing at The Leap!!
The 2 I still want to do the most here (that I haven't done yet) would have to be: * Traveller Buttress, * Fantasia, & *Hospital Corner
Great climbing spot. We enjoyed our stay very much. Something to come back again ...
bearbnz figured this would be some good multi-pitch steepness for me to practice on, so I loaded up my 3000ci Mountainsmith Ghost and clawed my way up. Pretty fun stuff.
I've never had a bad day climbing here. I definitely avoid the summer weekends, though.