Lower Blair, 5.6-5.13c

Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Lat/Lon: 41.19088°N / 105.38814°W
Activities: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall


Overview/Approach

Public Enemy, 5.10a**
Dow climbing Public Enemy, 5.10a**
Penetration, 5.9+**
Dow leading Penetration, 5.9+**

(Above:  Dow leading Braggin' About Jesus, 5.10aPG***) This area is known as a locals off-width destination.  And even though I am an off-width aficionado, my original attraction to Lower Blair was the name of (Cooler Than Jesus is one of my favorite routes in all of Moab) as well as the multiple full page photos in the local guide of Braggin’ About Jesus, 5.10aPG***, a double arete sport climb (and I am not a sport climber).  However, the bonus find for me in this area was a stellar trad route named Raised on Robbery, 5.10**.  Raised was every bit as good  as any three or four star routes I have climbed at Vedauwoo.  The local guide has Lower Blair broken up into many different faces, some right next to each other.  Braggin’ About Jesus is on a wall named Braggin’ which adjoins the Putter Zone wall.  Penetration, 5.9+**, is a short off-width on the north end of Putter (well shaded).  However, it was on chossy rock and sandbagged and not recommended.   The primary attraction for most visiting climbers will be the four star 5.8 named Le Petit Arbre, 5.8****.  It felt  overrated to me, but Raised on Robbery, 5.10**, more than made up for the disappointment.  Raised is an outstanding trad lead starting out pulling a vagina shaped roof to an athletic hand diagonal.  Public Enemy, 5.10a**, another diagonal just to the left of Robbery, is not recommended.  It is plagued by chossy rock and sandbagged, Mountain Project claims this route is 5.11- in 2018 and the rock quality on the crux start off the deck leaves something to be desired.  

The majority of the routes on Braggin’ and Putter face southeast (Blair #3 in the guide).  Blair #1 and #2 walls, located to the east of Blair #3, face Braggin’ and Putter and are therefore more apt to be shaded locations. 

Access the Blair/Wallis road from the south side of the interstate and go under the interstate to access the dirt road 705. Continue past private property to a trailhead day use area on the right. Follow the left trail out of the trailhead to a Y. Right is for Blair #1 and #2 as well as Braggin’ and Putter and the left serves the long west face on #3, Hard to Believe, etc.

Formations Listed from East to West

Blair #1, West Face, Right to Left

Electric Gypsy Moth- 5.10c**/

Nick’s Loose Flake- 5.7/

Le Petit- 100’-5.8***/ Not sure about the four star recommendation in the guide, but worth doing.  Straight in 5.6 hand crack past a fixed rap at top.  Cross the wide ledge and climb the crux move off the deck on the higher wall to access a fist to hand crack.   Single from C4#.5 through #3.  A few extra medium pieces.  Dow

My Little Dick- 5.10a/

Gampher Chimney- 5.7**/

Spike- 5.9/

Social Mores- 5.10b/

Community Norms- 5.10d/

Three Roofs- 5.7*/

Ice Box- 5.8/

Blue- 5.10/

Raised on Robbery- 60’-5.10**/ Outstanding route pulling a vagina shaped roof to an athletic (diagonal) hands splitter.  Locate the vagina cavity at the left end of the wall (Gampher Recess).  You can protect with small gear as you make the crux move of chimneying to stemming to surmount the roof and access a deep hand crack that pulls a few bulges.  Single from micro to C4#3 with an extra #1 and/or #2.  Full on good.  Dow

Public Enemy- 60’-5.10a**/ This is one that is listed as a 5.11 elsewhere.  It is not recommended despite the poorly written guide giving it one.  Follow chossy rock through two bolts just to the left of Raised on Robbery which is a much better route.  The crux is making an awkward mantle of sorts to reach the finger to hand crack above.  Hand jams to the shared fixed anchor.  Single to C4#3.  Dow

Blair #2, East Face (The Wing), Left to Right

Deadman’s Glove- 5.11c/

Hobbit Logic- 5.11b**/

Bloody Scab- 5.8**/

Edge of Sanity- 5.8**/

The Wing- 5.12c****/

West Face, Left to Right

Body Pump- 5.10d***/

Good by (sic) White Opal- 5.11**/

Medium Cool- 5.10d**/

Solo for Swallows- 5.11/

A Thing of Beauty- 5.10*/

Blair #3, East Face (Braggin’ Recess to Putter Zone), Left to Right

Braggin’ Recess Wall

Balls Out- 5.11R/

Every Move You Make- 5.12bPG/

Sketch Palsy- 5.10c/

Arete Already- 5.10a/

Braggin’ About Jesus- 105’-5.10aPG***/ I don’t agree with the PG in the guide book as this a well bolted face/arête climb through 9 clips.  The guide references taking a few pieces of gear, but where that crack is located is well protected by the bolts.  True 70m rope just makes the rap to the ground.   Start up in the chimney on the right of the arête and chimney up and squeeze back out onto the arete at the first bolt. Perhaps this is where the guide references PG,  but I felt secure. Positive crystal type climbing up the arete and then a traverse over a crack onto another one that is more sparsely bolted, but also easier climbing.  Soft for the Voo.  Dow

Unicorn Exterminator- 5.10c***/

Bailers Anonymous- 5.7*/

Putter Zone Wall

Rocklickers Lulluby (sic)- 5.9+PG**/

Damit- 5.10c***/

Putter- 5.10b***/

Inferno Fog- 5.12a***/

Penetration- 50’- 5.9+**/ Appropriately named as I felt violated in every way possible.  A chossy sandbagged route that gets recommended in the guide which is written by the FAer.   Sandbagged and chossy, your gear will be suspect in places.  This is a tough size OW as off-widths go (no 5.9).  You do start up the twin cracks, but just for a meter or two until you are riding the left side.  Small folks will have an advantage on this one.   Gets to a point where most will not be able to reach for hands and will be going slow via an insecure left chicken wing and heel toe.  Bottom line is you will be making sweat love to the rock.   Rap anchor above.  Single to C4#5.  Rack everything on your right side.  Dow

Blair #3, West Face (Hard to Believe to Intimidation Wall), Left to Right

Hard to Believe Wall

Hard to Believe- 5.10b**/ (photo)

Sneak Around- 5.6/

Intimidation Wall

Son of a Wanted Man- 5.13c/

Pretty Girls with Long Knives- 5.12b**/

Five Finger Discount- 5.12aPG*/

Intimidation- 5.10b***/

Take Five- 5.11-/

Ledge of the World- 5.9/

Jogging to Vedauwoo- 5.10a**/

A Dream of Fat Antelope- 5.9*/

Random Crystals- 5.8*/

Go Left, Old Man, Go Left- 5.7/








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