Lucifer's Hammer

Page Type
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Backcountry Technical Rock
Time Required:
Half a day
III 5.10

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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Lucifer's Hammer
Created On: Dec 21, 2005
Last Edited On: Feb 18, 2006


The South Face of Thor Peak is the home of several of the finest rock climbs in the Sierra. It is easily approached from the Mt. Whitney trail at Bighorn Park. The combination of short approach amd moderate-length routes (Grade II to Grade IV) means that most of the routes on the South Face of Thor Peak can be climbed car-to-car in a day by a competent party.

In the 1999 edition of Secor's High Sierra Peaks, Passes and Trails, Lucifer's Hammer is visible (but not marked)in the photo of the South Face of Thor Peak on page 64. It will likely be listed in the next edition.

The route is located on the large, blank wall directly above the start of Pink Perch.

Route Description

Start at the base of Odin's Wrath. Follow this route for a pitch, or walk up the second class ledges of Pink Perch to where it crosses Odin's Wrath.

Climb straight up for 2 1/2 pitches to where the crack system fades away. Traverse left to the next crack system, which is joined at a belay in a crystal bowl.

Follow this crack system to the top of the wall.

See topo.

Essential Gear

Take nuts and cams from tiny TCUs and alien to a #5 Camalot.. 50m ropes are adequate.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.