Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 44.59060°N / 104.715°W
Additional Information Route Type: Aid Climbing
Seasons Season: Fall
Additional Information Time Required: A long day
Additional Information Difficulty: A4 5.8
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 4
Additional Information Grade: III
Sign the Climber's Log


LUCK OF THE DRAWLUCK OF THE DRAW. Patrick Kingsbury working away on the first pitch.
LUCK OF THE DRAW. This is the crack directly left of MR CLEAN, on the West Face of Devils Tower. I had tried this crack before, solo, more than a dozen years previous. It was the hardest aid that I had ever tried at that time. Did one pitch, and backed off. Fast-Forward to 2008; Partner Patrick Kingsbury wants to give that 1st Pitch a go, and I'd like to see what the pitches above look like !! Should I have bailed back then, or would it have gotten easier???? Need to know !!

Getting There

Yep. Up the boulders and over left, to the base of MR CLEAN. This crack is the first crack left of MR CLEAN.

Route Description

LUCK OF THE DRAW on Devils Tower, Wyoming.LUCK OF THE DRAW. Patrick Kingsbury Cleaning on the 2nd Pitch.
First Ascent September 2008. Patrick Kingsbury and Frank Sanders.

Pitch 1. A4 (100 ft) Aid Your way up this thin, shallow crack. Patrick put in 21 of the #1 Beaks. Belay at a Big Bolt Anchor established in 1993

Pitch 2. A1+(160 ft) Enjoy some easy aiding, for a good long ways. Really fun. Gear Anchor.

Pitch 3. A3+/A4(90 ft) The crack becomes thin and shallow again. Patrick utilized 18 of the #1 Beaks. This lead takes You to the Big West Ledges. Big Bolt Anchor.

Pitch 4. 5.8 (140 ft) Join the McCARTHY WEST FACE Route,and find Your way to the Tower Top. This is a Chimney Pitch. Be sure to bring at least 2@#4 Friends or Camalots.

The route got its name as Patrick got the hard pitches and I got the easy ones. He was playing a lot of on-line Poker, at the time (and winning enough to support his climbing habit "in Style"). We both had an excellent time on the route, but the pitches that we got were definitely by the "Luck of the Draw".

Essential Gear

Standard Aid Rack. 20+@ #1Beak, Extra Blades & Bugs
At LEAST 2@#4 Friends/Camalots for the last pitch.

External Links

Photo Gallery