Lucky Streaks

Page Type
Rock Difficulty:
5.10d (YDS)
Number of Pitches:

Route Quality: 4 Votes

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Lucky Streaks
Created On: Aug 13, 2007
Last Edited On: Aug 13, 2007

Lucky Streaks

The Regular Route on Fairview gets the crowds (and the 50 Classics tick) but for my money Lucky Streaks is a far superior climb. The climb boasts six pitches of continually interesting, steep, sustained climbing, most of it 5.9, with several 5.10 sections; even the last 5.8 pitch, keeps you on your toes (which by now are probably begging for mercy) until almost the very end. Jamming, stemming, laybacking, knob pulling--this line has it all. The approach and the descent are easy and the views excellent. One of the best climbs I've done anywhere.

Getting There

Park in or near the six car lot on the south side of the road, 3.4 miles west of the Tuolumne Store and 4.2 miles east of Tenaya Lake.

Follow the obvious trail from the left side of the parking area (climber sign); at the fork go right. The trail leads directly to the base of the climb. A well-worn dirt patch marks the start of the route. The descent trail comes by here as well so leaving packs is no problem.

Route Description

P1. Climb easy cracks into the corner system and follow it up to the right. Before the crack system peters out, step left and pull a few face moves (5.9) to follow another crack system up, looking for a run-out traverse to a good belay ledge on the right.

P2. Continue up an easy right-slopping crack until you reach a steep finger crack (5.10) going straight up, just before a big corner. Good gear and stances and a few pumpy moves bring you to a big ledge.

P3. The crux comes just off the deck. Climb steep finger cracks (5.10d), short but powerful, reachy moves with some tricky sequencing to establish yourself in the system. A delicate 5.10 layback move past a roof, leads to sustained 5.9 laybacking and another 5.10 move below another roof to gain the next belay. Although rope drag will be noticeable by now, resist the idea to set up a hanging belay because a great ledge will be found several feet up beyond the roof. If you don't, you'll never hear the end of it from your belayer.

P4. A 5.9 corner of stemming on knobs brings you to a roof. Supertopo puts the belay here but I think it makes more sense to continue under the roof and put the belay on the other side of the traverse, which will make it easier for the leader to watch the follower. Semi-hanging belay either way.

P5. More 5.9 crack and knobs straight up. Another uncomfortable belay.

P6. A sustained 5.8 jam crack to the summit.

Descent: Head to the back side of the dome, contouring around to the right until you see the south slope easing down toward the trees. Zig zag down, moving to the right when possible, onto the slabs at the base. Where the slabs meet the trees on the right, pick up a trail at the base of the dome that leads back to the start.

Essential Gear

Double rack of cams to 3. One 3.5 piece. Nuts, micro nuts. Comfortable shoes.

External Links

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