Lyell Glacier conditions

5-August-2007: Lyell Glacier conditions. From the west side of the moraine up to the Lyell-Maclure saddle (to the right, partly out of photo) was mostly suncupped snow with an ice patch or two to avoid. When I descended this route a couple of guys were coming up without ice axe or crampons. One could conceivably also skirt the glacier on the eastern side (to the left, also out of photo) where it is mostly loose rock. I went up the left side of the glacier to the start of the East Arete. There were ice patches and streams of frozen meltwater. Max angle about 35 degrees, easy enough with steel crampons and french technique (it appeared to be considerably steeper near the 'schrund on the right).