Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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47.56520°N / 121.1798°W |
Route Type:
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Mixed snow and rock |
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Time Required:
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Two days |
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Difficulty:
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Class 3 rock, 35 degree snow |
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Approach
Drive I-90 east from Snoqualmie Pass or west from Ellensburg and take Exit 80. Proceed north through Roslyn and Ronald and toward Salmon la Sac, 16 miles from Roslyn. Turn right on Forest Road 4330 and drive to the end of the road. This description is the same for the Southeast Ridge and Hyas Creek Glacier Headwall approaches.
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Route Description
From Tucquala Meadows trailhead hike 5 miles until Deception pass. From Deception pass turn left and follow Marmot Lake trail 1066 all the way to Marmot Lake where the trail ends (4.1miles) (4930 ft). There are campsites but depending on the bugs it may be necessary to camp up higher. From the east end of Marmot Lake continue cross-country along the south flank of the lake. Ascend the second boulder field on your left to No Name Lake and continue on higher to the green Jade Lake (5442 ft). This lake can be skirted on the left and heading south to the obvious gully which is a permanent snow field to Dip Top Pass at 6640ft. From pass do not directly descend to the Pea Soup Lake. Instead stay high to avoid steep scree and traverse to the west on shaky rocks until you find the broad solid path going down to the draw of Pea Soup Lake. From this point one could make a side trip to Mt. Hinman. Jumping over the drainage of Pea Soup Lake on the west side climb the slabby easy class 3 rock to the base of the glacier. The snow at this point is the steepest section of the climb. Once higher than the rocks on your left start traversing in a southwesterly fashion underneath the West Pyramid. This traverse is rather low grade and pleasant with great alpine views. After the West Pyramid the West (true) summit can be aimed. There might be crevasses and zigzagging around them might be necessary. The summit pinnacle is a class-3 scramble with great views. From here a short scramble to the middle summit can be made as well. The Lynch glacier route is best done as a loop and the easiest descent can be done via the southeast ridge down to Peggy’s Pond and then back to the trailhead.
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Essential Gear
Basic glacier travel gear rope, prussiks, biners, ice axe and crampons. Pickets depending on the comfort level of the group.
Miscellaneous Info
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