Weather changed fast on that day, luckily the route is quite short. Anyway, the slogan "slippery when wet" applies for the rock sections...
I climbed the Mönch in very good conditions.
I started direct from my home 240 km distant at 4h. In Grindelwald at 7, I took the first train to Jungfraujoch and I was on the summit at 11h40. Easy ridge, first rocky with moderate difficulties, then snowy. On the summit ridge, the track was wide and not icy. From the summit, emotional view on the Eiger below.
A very accessible peak, good rock and snow.
A great route with plenty of modest interest climbed under ideal conditions......Fantastic views.
An easy peak with a stunning sunrise.
Beautiful! Very easy. Climbed it after I climbed the Eiger.
This is a great mountain for acclimatising, and practicing basic techniques at the beginning of the season. It took 2 hrs to climb the ridge from the bottom, and half an hour to get to the start from the train station at the Jungfraujoch. The ridge has enough of a drop on either side to maintain interest, and the summit is splendid. Even though there is a lot of snow on the mountains this year, there are no problems with this route.
A worthwhile day out!
with a group of the german alpine club. Unexperienced as I was I was glad that I could join the group for my first trip above 4000 m.
first ice route ...
Late start from Jungfraujoch. Left skis and pack at bottom of ridge. Easy semi-soft snow, no ice. Towards end of rocky part, there is a 'crux', which is difficult to get up and even more to get down. Would strongly recommend even soloers to bring 4-5 meters of rope, as there is a fixed metal spire just above the crux. Alternatively, a few handholds can be found by scraping off the snow. The snow-ridge was a bit soft in the afternoon, would have been better in the morning. Little wind on summit, great view on a cloud-less day.
In a sunny but windy day after two days waiting (bad weather) we reached the summit of the Monch via the normal route the SE ridge. It was an easy climb and the view from the top was fantastic.
Ski-mountaneering approach to the pass then climbing on the easy ridge in a very cold day.
My first Alpine 4000er. Went with Mark Ziegler from the Grindelwald Climbing Centre. Glorious day, but hot and I didn't drink enough which didn't help altitude acclimatisation.
A fun route out with Toby!
I guess the Nollen was in great shape cause we ran up in 4 hrs, 4.75 to Jungfrau Joch- just in time to avoid the predicted storm...
People continued to head up the normal route as we came down despite the gathering snowclouds and accelerating storm... strange. A symptom of mtns TOO easy to access perhaps? I didn't read of any deaths that wkd but was pleasantly surprised considering the teams we saw heading up.
A fantastic route! Guggi hut is quite nice!
My first 4000m peak over a very nice ice route. The Nollen at the time was almost vertical and quite difficult. With Dres Schild. Descended the SW Ridge
East Face/NE Ridge
The East face was not in good condition so we (Dres Schild and I) traversed over to the NE ridge. Otherwise a great climb with great views. Descended the SW ridge.
SE Ridge (normal)
I have climbed this peak more than any other. This time as a day climb with my husband Fred (see his log)
A very attractive climb with the beutifull view of the surrounding mountains and gleciers.
Another 'old buffer' joined me half-way through a walking holiday I was enjoying from a base at the Hotel Oberland in Lauterbrunnen. We had signed up for a two day private instruction course with Hano from Swiss Alpine Guides to prepare us for an attempt to climb the Monch.
On the 27th we set off for a days rock climbing and scrambling on a ridge facing the Steingletcher on the Sussten Pass. This was the first time I had put on a climbing harness and had been roped up. We had a superb day in complete solitude only interrupted by the impressive site of a chamois sensing our presence and taking off down a 60deg rocky slope.
The second day was spent on the Steingletscher getting used to crampons, another first for me. Part of the time was rock climbing with crampons and getting used to ice ridges and steep descents. Again a superb day
in perfect weather. I now realise that everything Hano was doing was to make us familiar with the equipment and the sort of conditions we would find on the Monch. He was watching us carefully and assessing our capabilities. Towards the end of the day we had a discussion and it was decided we needed a guide each so that we would feel comfortable on the exposed parts of the Monch.
Monday 29th we set off on the first train to the Jungfraujoch with Hano and were joined by Chris from Sweden
who would be my guide. We set off along the main track to the Monchjochshutte and opposite the begining of the SE ridge, roped up and put our crampons on. It was about 10am when we crossed the snow field on a long rope and started the climb. Chris put me on a short rope and we began the climb. I felt very comfortable with Chris, somewhat helped by him telling me he had climbed Annapurna last October and the North Wall of the Eiger a couple of years earlier.
We made the summit in sunny conditions at approximately 1pm. The summit was somewhat crowded with about ten climbers enjoying the stunning view. The descent was slow and carefull with the snow getting quite soft in the hot conditions. Again a long rope for crossing the snowfield to the main track. As we were crossing Chris turned and pointed to a climber who had unroped for crossing the snowfield and had fallen up to his armpits. Fortunately he was pulled out but it demonstrated the stupidity of taking unnecessary risks.
A fantastic three days with a great feeling on reaching the summit of the Monch. A great deal of respect and admiration for the professionalism of the guides.
1989 with Monica Spicker
1997 with Tanya Spicker
2001 with Katrin Schild
All three climbs done as day climbs using the train to the joch. Amazing differences in the conditions each time - like doing 3 different routes.
8am start (white out stopped it being earlier) from our campsite at Monchjoch. Fresh snow made conditions harder for breaking trail (well done Phil). No other parties on route - which was nice! - Summited in 3hrs -interesting climb - snow deteriorated quickly due to sun. Summit ridge heavily corniced and exposed but a good climb. Off in 2 1/2 hours.
Heavy snow (and avalanches) next few days forced us to miss the Jungfrau - back next year?