Made in the Shade is on the right side of Cougar Canyon, several walls back from House of Cards
. Walls on the right hand side of Cougar Canyon are either right on the creek or set back. Made in the Shade is more of a set back wall. It is one of the shaded areas behind the trees and moss, however, it gets decent afternoon sun in May.
There is a right and left side divided by 40 meters of moss-covered ledges. The left side is closer to being along the creek, the right side is farther back. There are more bolts on these routes than what show in the current edition (5th) of Sport Climbs in the Canadian Rockies. The right half has significant features including a corner, Shadow of Turning, and a small roof, Skyjack. A stick clip is needed for most of the routes on the left wall.
Whichever route(s) you chose, start the day off right at the most popular local climbers hangout, the Summit Café on Cougar Creek Drive off of Benchlands Trail right before you reach the Cougar Creek trail head. It is the best coffee shop in town and serves breakfast and sacked lunches. Grab a magic bar for the climb. Ask for Steve.
Grap these Topo Maps off of the net and you can avoid buying the guidebook.
Routes listed from left to right as you face the wall.
Shady Lady- 5.11b (Stick Clip)
Made in the Shade- 5.10b/c
Crashcourse- 5.10b (Stick Clip)
Clipjoint- 5.11c (Stick Clip)
French Connection- 5.11d (Stick Clip)
Tree Men- 5.11a
Shadow of Turning- 5.9
- Just about the best 5.9 back here because you can top rope High Wire which is a 10d and Skyjack which is an 11b. All three have asterisks in the guide book and deserve them. This is a fun crack/corner system that starts out a little tough, eases up a bit in the middle, hit a crux, eases up again and then you must come out from the corner onto the face for another tough move or two. About 7 bolts to chains.
High Wire- 5.10d-
Same anchor as Shadow of Turning, but that is where the route similarities end. The crux here is the start; it is polished off pretty badly. You would like a stick clip here if not top roping. The middle is easy for the grade and then you climb the face for the last third which is challenging, but not as difficult as the beginning of this route. About 7 bolts to chains.
Pin-toe Flakes- 5.10b/c
60 Meter Rope, Helmet, Climbing Shoes, These are all bolted sport routes in this section. The Local Guide Book (Sport Climbs in the Canadian Rockies) and/or these Topo Maps