Note: In this part of Italy, most people speak German, hence most objects have a German and an Italian name. Where I give both, the German name is the first.
The big three
The Madritschspitze / Cima Madriccio lies in the eastern part of the Ortler Group
and offers great views on some of the famous mountains all around, especially the big three, Ortler
, Monte Zebru
and Gran Zebru
, but also the Cevedale
|Gran Zebru |
The Madritschspitze is the first peak on the ridge connecting the Madritschjoch / Passo del Madriccio (3123 m) to the Eisseejoch / Passo del Lago Gelato (3139 m). The other peaks on the ridge are the Butzenspitze / Cima Pozzo (46.4862, 10.6230) (3300 m) and the Eisseespitze / Punta del Lago Gelato (46.4805, 10.6087) (3230 m).
East of the peak lies the Madritschtal / Valle Maddricio, to the south east the Butzental / Valle del Pozzo, to the west lies the Solden ski area.
Madritschtal / Valle Madriccio from the Madritschjoch
Madritschjoch lies about 2,5 km east by north east
of the Schaubachhütte / Rifugio Città di Milano
(2581 m) and is the highest point in the route to the Zufallhutte / Rifugio Nino Corsi
(2265 m). This route is popular for hikers and mountainbikers alike. If there isn't too much snow, the hike to the pass from the Schaubachhütte takes about 1.5 hours, from the Zufallhütte about 3.
Just north of the pass lies the Punta Beltovo / Schöntaufspitze
The Eisseejoch lies about 2 km south by south east
from the Schaubachhütte and is on of the glacier route from the Schaubachütte to the Cassati refuge
, from where many people climb the Cevedale. In fact, quite a lot of people climb Cevedale directly from the Schaubachhütte, and considering the prices at the Casatihütte, I cannot blame them. Note that this is a glacier route, with lots of crevasses!
The best access is either from the small town of Sulden / Solda, or from the Martell valley to the east. See Punta Beltovo / Schöntaufspitze
for more information.
The Easiest Route
The easiest route is hiking up from the Zufallhütte through the Martell valley and the Butzental. Count on 3-4 hours to the summit.
From the hut, follow a good path into the Martell valley, initially going south, but soon it turns westward. Ignore the turnoff to the left (or south) that descends to the river and the Martellerhütte
and continu along the path up into the valley, ascending gradually. The path doesn't follow the valley floor, but stays on the slopes, and very gradually turns towards the north west.
Butzental / Valle del Pozzo
By now you're into the Butzental, which ends at the ridge connecting the Butzenspitze on the left and the Madritschspitze on the right.
Butzental / Valle del Pozzo
Basically, follow the good path up into the valley until it disappears. From there it doesn't really matter anymore, just continue up the valley. The last few hunderd meters to the summit can be approached directly from the south, or along either the south east or the south west ridge, all easy. The summit is marked by a big cross, which is visible from far away.
We followed this route on the descent.
The approach from the north, from the Madritschjoch, is a nice scramble along the north ridge leading to the summit, UIAA grade I-II.
The ridge is quite exposed at some places. Route finding is easy, just follow the ridge. You can see the summit cross on and off while on the ridge, but you'll have to pass quite a few false summits before you finally see it up close. We took a leasurely two hours, but it shouldn't be too hard to climb it within an hour.
|The final pitch |
There are two more easy routes worth mentioning, though I have no personal experience with these.
It's possible to hike in through the Madritsch valley and cross the SE ridge in a gap at about 500 m distance from the summit. From there, walk to the summit on or along the ridge.
Traverse the ridge from the Butzenspitze, which lies to the SW.
Wild camping is not allowed, but there are plenty of alpine huts nearby. In winter, Sulden is a ski town, with lots of accommodation options. In summer, it is a pleasent town and not so busy anymore, so it's easy to find a place to stay.
The two most relevant huts are
Schaubachhütte / Rifugio Città di Milano
Zufallhutte / Rifugio Nino Corsi
Before moving to the Schaubachhütte, we stayed at Garni Ortlerhof
and I can certainly recommend that.
External LinksSulden tourist information