Main summit of Mt. Waddington from NW summit

Main summit of Mt. Waddington from NW summit

We did the NW summit first and then descended to gully between the main tower and the Tooth. We got halfway up the main tower and a instantaneous storm hit with horizontal rain and snow. We quickly retreated and every time we threw the ropes down they went completely horizontal and because of the nature of the rock we had the rope snag everytime we used two ropes. The last time we could not pull it free and had to cut the rope so from then on we rapped with a single rope. As I coiled up the rope I noticed a huge cut from rock or ice fall. When we finally made it to the base of the tower we spent 2 hours digging a snow cave as the storm got worse and worse sometimes lifting us off are feet and almost blowing us away. We spent the night there and in the morning it was clear but very windy and since no sleeping bags=no sleep we were pretty tired.We were going to bale at that point but my partner,Mary Prendergast with the indomitable Irish spirit would have nothing of it. So off we went to summit the Wadd in improving weather but I still remember being pretty wasted.
on Oct 25, 2012 6:30 am
Image Type(s): Alpine Climbing
Image ID: 821930


Post a Comment
Viewing: 1-3 of 3

lsheen - Oct 25, 2012 8:52 pm - Voted 10/10


...Photo and story! Glad you're still with us - sounds like it was a close scrape!


Big Lew

Vitaliy M.

Vitaliy M. - Jan 29, 2013 5:35 pm - Voted 10/10


WHAT A STORY! So you went to the top after climbing rappelling all the way back down in a storm?! WOW
That ridge is quite a knife edge!
What month of the year did you go?


Harryk - Jan 30, 2013 3:45 pm - Hasn't voted


It was late July 1985, Peter Croft,Greg Foweraker and Don Serl did the 1st Waddington traverse right after us in perfect weather, Great account of it in Chic Scott's Canadian mountaineering book, can't remember the name of it.

Viewing: 1-3 of 3