Maldonkopf

Overview

The Maldonkopf
The Maldonkopf is a superb smmit for views. It sits on the main ridges of the Muttekopf and the Platteinspitze which have an outstanding panorama. The only safe way to its summit unless you are a rock climber is to follow the wires of the well engineered via ferrata.
www.alpinearena.com/via_ferrata.htm





The Vorderer Platteinspitze
The Vorderer Platteinspitze also has a via ferrata but it has slightly fallen into disrepair and the new routewas not complete when we were there. This is only grade 1 scrambling so perhaps you will not need a wire.
To get to the Vd. Platteinsptze take the Plattigsteig traversing path to the Platteinwhere there is a lovely picnic spot by a cross and then ascend from there. (I am going to post a short via ferrata route shortly)

Getting Thereand the Route

The Maldonkopf is situated above the Muttekopf Hutte which is a newly renovated Mountain Hutte which is ideal to make a base for climbing all these mountains. The hut is easily accessible by parking at Hoch Imst and travelling up the two chair lifts and from there an easy 40 minute walk gets you there.

Be warned that both lifts only run in the main season and at weekends early and late summer.

Route
Walk to the top station of the two lifts at 1981m along the very pleasant Drichlsteig to the Muttekopf Hutte (which is waymarked) in about 35 minutes along a well engineered path. Along this path is a small klettersteig called the Imst wasserfall klettersteig - which is suitable for families and will only take about an hour of your time. The Hutte is beautifully appointed with superb views and is well worthy of a coffee break. From the back of the Hutte the Imster is signed a black route and it is 40 minutes uphill over the Guggersattel to the start of the klettersteig proper. You will find at the start of the route it announces it is 2 hours to the top - do allow however 3 hours!!

The start of the route is on superb, grippy limestone which dries after rain very quickly. The first stages are on easily climable limestone, which builds up your confidence. There then follows a series of testing moments - including a small and extremely exposed overhang where there is very little to hold on to.

As the rock steepens the scramblng becomes assisted climbing and you will need a fair amount of upper body strength. You now progress along a rib which is very exposed with some superb views. Eventually the route gives way to some easier ledges and you begin to feel the excitement is over but this is not the case the best is still to come!!

The crux
About 3/4 of the way up just as the summit cross omes into view and you have the feeling you have reached the top - the crux of the whole climb blocks your way forward. This is a 70 metre slab of sheer rock and for the feint hearted there is now an escape route to the right (on wire)which takes you down into the kar (corry/ combe)and leads you back to the Hutte without having to climb any higher.

Without a doubt most of you will press on as this part of the route is why you have come. This is one of the most spectacular places to view v.ferrata climbers progressing up the almost featureless rock.

The route initially follows a crack diagonally up the face. It is climbable with a series of foot and hand jams, until it turns a corner onto absolutely smooth rock. It is here that you will need the upper body strength to haul your way up the wire using intermittant rungs which leave it still very challanging.

After this steep almost vertical section there are a few short tricky sections, but the summit is always in sight. When you reach the summit keep an eye out for thunder clouds as it is prone to electric storms in the late afternoon.

The Summit and descent

The Maldonkopf has wonderful views in all directions. Along its ridges you can see to the Hint.Platteinspitze 2723m to the south east and to the south west you can see the Muttekopf 2774m, Rotkopf 2692m, and the Pleiskopf 2560m. The longer vies are across the Inn valley to the Pitztal, Otztal nd beyond.

Across the Hahntenjoch to the north is the Falscher Kogl and the Maldongrat. To the North north east is the massive walls of the almost impenetrable Heiterwand.

The Descent
The way down is via a new absteig and is to the east of the summit where you follow the new wire along the top and then descend to the south. A series of rungs at this stage make it very easy. Eventually when you come of the rock face you wend your way around a number of corners and then the wire runs out!! At least it did in 2008 - but there is spare wire and it looks like they will extend it. At this point pick your way very gingerly off the route on to some very loose boulders - many of which fall down 100's of feet in to the corry below. Take care your route is not above another party of climbers.

The ascents
25th August 2008 Robert, Paul, Adam and Fred
11th September 2008 The two Peters, Robert, Tom and Terry

Hutte and the surroundings

Muttekopf Hutte is at 1934m and has food services and accommodation
Latschenhutte is at 1623 and is a pleasant place for refreshment on your way back.
The Untermarkter Alm is at 1491m andis a typical ski hostelry.

If the top lift is not working it is a pleasant 1 hour walk from the middle station via the Latschenhutte to the Muttekopf hutte. The walk is through meadows and Latschen and is very popular.

For the sports climbing enthuisiast there is a small rock face at Guggerkopfl whcih as an easy walk from the Muttekopfhutte.

For an extended holiday it is good to travel over Scharnitzsattel to the Hahntenjoch and overto the Anhalter Hutte which is also a beautifully located mountain Inn.

Weather Conditions

External links

www.alpinearena.com/via_ferrata.htm

Images

View Maldonkopf Image Gallery - 94 Images