Mangart Saddle - Biv. Nogara - VF Italiana - VF Slovena - Mangart - Italian Normal Route - Mangart Saddle.
On the Slovenian route. The via ferrata was covered with icy snow on many sections. Not just a small icy snow but 2 meter deep at a section. Here the rocks had to be climbed not too far from the original ferrata route. Two Austrian climbers were so kind to secure my climbing with their rope. I didn't have any more difficult climb yet from technical perspective. Descent on the Italian route. It was snowy and icy, too. But less dangerous
Italian Route since Slovenian route was closed because of rock avalanche,perfect sunny day with 20 cm of new snow,Afternoon clouds cover the summit
see my trip report
We waited and waited to see if the clouds around the summit would clear before starting the climb up - fun and easy ascent. Too bad no summit views, but neat mist near the top. With my wife Sonya.
Mangart Saddle - Slovenian route - Summit - Italian Route - Mangart Saddle
Mangartsko sedlo - Slovenska pot (up) - Via Italiana (down).
The busiest trail and summit on mine 8-day trip through Slovenian Julian and Kamnik-Savinja Alps. However it was very much worth of climbing it...
Started from Mangart Sedlo, climbed VF Italiana and continued on the normal Italian route to the top. Had planned on taking the Slovenian route, but it was closed due to rock fall. Started late on didn't come back before 20.30. Superb views!
Mangartsko sedlo - Slovenska pot (up) - Via Italiana (down)
Future plan: Mangart-Jalovec traverse. The guidebook describes the ridge as "barely passable", should be fun!
What a wide views - Dolomiten, Hohe Tauern, Carnic. Ascent and descent from Sedlo pod Mangartom.
This is one of my favourite climbing stories,something to pass to grandchildren. We started late from Mangartsko Saddle.We intended to go 200m down and up Italian ferrata, then down the Slovenian route.In the begginning, I noticed that everybody else was going in the other direction and pointed that out. My cousin got angry, she said that I am ungrateful, she has been here two times already, and told me to learn to trust.
Later on, I could not stop mentioning that we are losing height very qiuckly, and we did not stop until we saw Belopeska Lakes, we lost 1000m instead of 200.Then she realized the mistake.We obviously went down the Forcella della lavina.We were little late, and had little water, but still we turned around, climbed up the Nogara bivouac,then up Italian ferrata.It is marvellous, very airy and exciting.We were late in the afternoon, and went down the Slovenian route very quickly, trying to escape the night.Everything went well.
going there , I made a mistake - at Ratece border pass I realized I took my health insurance card instead of documents, so we had to drive around , over Vrsic, a big circle. It really was eventful day.
I slept on the Mangartsko saddle and the next day I reached the summit of Mangart just some minutes before sunrise. Very enjoyable ascent.
Ascent from Mangartske sedlo via Italian route, because Slovenian route was closed :(
From Lago di Fusine to Mangart saddle, slept in Koča na Mangartskem sedlu, and next day on the summit up by Slovenian route and down by Italian route back to saddle. And back down over bivacco Nogara to the lakes. Unfortunately, we had no view from above althogh it was nice weather that weekend. But in august clouds often come quickly...
Ascent from Koca na Mangarskem Sedlu, Via Normale route. Beautiful day, unforgetable ascent.
I love this feratta :))
I've been to Mangart summit twice:
- in September 2003 with my father and my girlfriend Irene; we had lots of snow and ice and it was quite difficult to climb the slovenian route; Irene fell off a couple of meters in a steep section, which took us a some minutes to forget... ;) fortunately she wasn't harmed! We were quite happy to reach the summit after a short break.
- in July 2004 we had better conditions and lots of fun climbing mangart again using the same route.
In October and November 2005 we did the ferrata "Via Italiana" twice - it is a nice, fairly difficult route, very exposed (if you like this, you will enjoy it really). "Via Italiana" is ending when joining the normal route, where we went back to mangart saddle.
nice climb, loose rocks in one place, rather busy on top, sometimes a lot of iron
I was four times on the summit, between 1972 and 1995, allways from Mangart saddle and allways up by the Slovenian route and down by the Italian route.
Descent via Italian Route. Loose rock in places, and quite busy, so a helmet is sensible. Very enjoyable ferrata, and a pleasant peak. The road takes you so high that a full day is not required, but it combined well with eating icecream in Bovec.