Manic Depressive Direct (5.5)

Page Type
Route
Location:
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Season:
Spring, Summer, Fall
Time Required:
Less than two hours
Rock Difficulty:
5.5 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:
2

Route Quality: 1 Votes

3179 Hits
71.06% Score
Log in
to vote
Page By:
Manic Depressive Direct (5.5)
Created On: Dec 8, 2007
Last Edited On: Jun 21, 2009

Overview

This seems to be a climb that isn't very well appreciated. There have been complaints that it is too bushy and dirty or too runout for beginning leaders, even that it lacks positive holds for small stretches. It's true, you won't find the large stances and positive handholds you find on Knapsack Crack. You will not however have to deal with a dirt and brush filled crack. In fact there are only two diminutive bushes left and those are on the trivial second pitch which are easily stepped over or around.

All in all I think this is a fine route for the grade. It is a step up in difficulty from Knapsack in that it is more sustained both in moves and finding protection. If you're starting out and have a few leads under your belt, why not give it a try?


Approach

This route shares the same approach with Harvey's Wallbangers, Center. Please enjoy draggers approach directions. You will belay off the same ledge. Manic Depressive starts 10 feet to the climbers right of the large Pine Tree.

Belay ledge

Route Description

Pitch 1: Ascend 15' of 5.5 left trending arch to gain the main crack. There are only two small pods to protect the face moves required to enter the main crack. Ascend the sometimes thin main crack placing gear where you can and smearing liberally on the ever lessening steepness of the route. Set your gear belay where the crack is large enough to utilize your prized #3.5 camalot. You will be just higher than a bolted belay station some 15' to your (climbers) right.
Start of routeStart of Pitch 1


Pitch 2: Scramble over the easy summit blocks to set your belay.

Descent: Walk off East towards the approach trail, aiming for the saddle.

Essential Gear

Bring it all baby. Specifically, you'll need 1 or 2 small cams for the beginning moves of pitch 1 and then some larger pro to set your gear belay.
Add External Links text here.