Not much ice. Some nice dry tooling.
One section of very sketchy, difficult to protect verglass in the center of the slot above the lower couloir. Other than that, greate snow and fun AI/WI3 pitch at the top of the slot. Pickets, stopers, cams and one ice screw.
Pretty easy if you ask me. WI2 and the mixed climbing was not that hard at all in the conditions I was in. The ice was to soft to trust a screw but it was sinker! The last pitch was not the crux in my opinion. It was the pitch before that. I lead it and there were a couple contrictions that were a bit umm.... balancy with the pack on.
The exposure was awesome though! A great lead too.
From May 30, 2010:
Very filled in compared to last year. No mixed section and very little ice. I remembered it being much more awkward and interesting.
From May 8, 2010:
Definitely get some beta before you go. We did it with very little ice and very deep, soft snow. Still fun, but a lot more work than it needed to be.
Mostly steep snow with 2 ice cruxes that were not hard but "balancey".
A long, but successful and satisfying day. The ice was mostly melted out at the cruxes, which made for a more difficult climb. Simul climbed the first two pitches, then belayed 3 more pitches, one of which was a cold hanging belay in a constriction with ice being dumped on me the whole pitch. Learned not to ever set a belay in such a spot. Probably the best way up Mt. Lady Washington.
Made it but a very long day, not great condition on the route but getting better. Was there a couple weeks ago and it was even worse than this trip.
Martha is OUT. Both of the steps are now 80%+ wet Rock.
Ice rotting but still fun
Did the "thin right start" to gain the snowfield, this was dry. All ice sections are gone and water is flowing down the entire route. By-passed the crux by climbing the face and bulge to the right of the black rock at the crux. Probably wasn't easier, but at least it was dry. Got to play alpine Jenga the whole way up.
Heh. Well, by the time you guys got on everything, it was definitely slushing up. It was much better for Andy and I at the lead; and we felt we were off by about an hour of prime time as it was (needed to be earlier). Snow in the Apron needs more consolidation; it was a hard crust on sugar. I'll put up a comparison shot of what 3 weeks and 2+ new feet of snow does for this climbs crux. Good to meet you and Tim up there, pleasant surprise.
climbed my first technical ice couloir(led also)! lots of fun and the crux was nerve-racking and thrilling at the same time. new niche forming?