Martin Cash setting the...

Martin Cash setting the first belay (three equalized small nuts) while I wait patiently below. The variation to the first pitch goes up that depression at left. Note the blowing spindrift. Well, we thought we could avoid the brunt of the wind if we climbed through the S-shaped gully instead of the variation. Boy were we wrong. In reality, it seemed like that gully was funneling the wind like a wind tunnel. But, you know, it wasn't really super-cold, just windy. Feb. 22, 2004.

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Diggler

Diggler - Feb 24, 2004 3:05 pm - Voted 10/10

steepness?

Nice set of photos of your guys' trip- looks fun! What was the average steepness of the slopes? Any WI en route? Makes me wish I were out there right now!

Martin Cash

Martin Cash - Feb 24, 2004 4:29 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: steepness?

Dirk, read the route report for the Northeast Buttress I put together for beta on the route. Paul and I tried to make it really detailed. It is rated III WI3 AI3.

Klenke

Klenke - Feb 24, 2004 4:46 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: steepness?

Dirk, it's hard to say. There were parts as steep as nearly vertical getting up through that waterfall. Other parts were much less. One thing's for sure, there weren't any flat spots until you got to the top staging area.



I looked at my topo software. While this is only a rough guess, from start to finish, the route climbs about 600 vertical feet in about 690 horizontal feet. This works out to: angle = arctan(600/690) = 41 degrees. Because of the steeper sections, the overall fell was that it was steeper than 41 degrees.

Diggler

Diggler - Feb 25, 2004 1:25 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: steepness?

That's awesome, guys. Inspirational shots for all of us! When I find time to get up to Washington for climbing, I'll be coming to you for recommendations!

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