Matt’s Line, 5.10-, 3 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Combining Matt’s Line and El Cautivo makes for the most popular and recommended moderate climbing day on Out of Towners Dome.  Matt's Line is a fully bolted route to the left of El Cautivo.  There are other routes in between, but these two routes are not seperated by much and both rap El Cautivo.  You finish Matt's line just to the left of the top rap anchor on El Cautivo.

The local guide labels the first and third pitches as 5.10-.  The first pitch has the only resemblance of any 5.10- moves but even then I would essentially call this route 5.9.  The second and three pitches both felt 5.8 even though the third pitch is rated 5.10- in the guide as well.  Just follow the many bolts.  Definitely one of the more mellow routes in all of Cochise.

Out of Towners Dome requires the longest approach in this canyon.  Hike as you would for Wasteland Dome, following the drainage below Entrance Dome, which remains a decent trail before ascending the final slopes to Wasteland.  When it starts to ascend the hill to the right, look to cross the bleached rock drainage coming down from between Wasteland and Out of Towners.  It is not obvious in finding the trail that crosses this drainage.  If you step into the wash and look downstream from where the Wasteland Dome trail starts to ascend steeply, you more than likely will spot a large cairn in the middle of the wash.  In any regard, cross the wash and locate a climber’s trail up the rightward slopes to the base of the obvious broad southern wall of Out of Towners Dome.  The trail ends at the wall just to the left of the popular routes, Matt’s Line and El Cautivo.  This suit up area is well shaded by trees.

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 190’-5.10-/ An easy to follow, fully bolted, route.  As appears to be the norm in the local guide for this wall, the true length of the varying pitches is longer than stated.   This is the crux pitch of the route.  It contained 3 or 4 thoughtful face/slab climbing sequences compared to zero 5.10- moves I could identify on the 3^rd pitch which is stated at the same grade. Walk northeast along the fin/ramp and belay below the obvious bolt line in the water streak.  There is a bench like/sized bolder at the base.   13 clips lead to fixed rap hangers at a stance.

2^nd Pitch- 120’-5.8/ Follow 6 bolts to another set of fixed rap hangers.  At one point they lead you up a left facing corner that you pull out of (god forbid you trad climb!) and onto the right face to finish.

3^rd Pitch- 190’-5.10-/ Never found the 5.10- climbing on this pitch.  Fairly benign 5.8 climbing for the most part through 10 bolts to the summit plateau.  Belay off a substantial tree.  The local guide mentions the immediate roof like feature as a crux, but it is a very positive pull with a clip directly above the roof.

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Rap from El Cautivo’s top anchor which is just east of where you toped out (set of rap hangers).  1^st rap is 65’  skiers right to a set of brown-red rap anchors. Then a full 70m rope rap to a ledge with rap hangers.  Either scramble skiers left 35’ down the sloping, but well featured, ledge to another set of rap hangers or take a short rap.  If you rap directly from the first set, you will have to downclimb an easy flake/corner for approximately 20’ to the next ledge/rap anchors.  From the skiers left set of anchors, take another 70m rope rap down to a ledge with another set of rap hangers.  Take one more rap to the approach ledge below.

Essential Gear

13 draws.  70m rope.  Wall gets full southern exposure to the sun.