From the hut with Jamie. Used some of the fixed lines in a few placed but otherwise did not rope. We did set a few rappels over the steeper sections rather than "Batman" down the fixed lines. Really cool route, but took longer than we expected and we missed the last gondola and had to walk to town.
Traverse route: We started from Rif. Oriondé Degli Abruzzi (2800m) at midnight since the Carrel Hut (3830m) was closed for renovation works (we knew this and wanted the solitude on the mountain). Climbed the Cresta Leone to the summit (8.30AM) and descended along the Hornligrat back to the Scharzsee (14:00 PM) to catch the cablecar back to Cervinia.
Didn't see anyone on the Cresta Leone, back down on the Hornligrat a completely different story with lots of climbers present. It was fantastic to finally climb the Matterhorn.
In good conditions. Traverse.
Blog post here: https://grahamwyllie.blogspot.com/2018/07/the-matterhorn.html
Did a 3 day solo climb from Bruil-Cervinia.
Day1: from Bruil-Cervinia to the Carel refuge
Day2: up the summit and back down to Carel (long day, 20+ hours)
Day3: down to Bruil-Cervinia
Beautiful clear and cool climb! Summitted with my good friend Peter and his son Jamie.
Hard day on the Hornli, turned back about 150 meters from the summit to due fatigue, tough conditions (lots of new snow, wind, etc), and fading daylight. Will return someday!
Returned July 2021 for another attempt- foiled again! Too much new snow (again), melting way too fast. Guess I gotta come back (preferably when it's dry in August).
Aborted attempt from Hornli Hut at around 4000m due to blizzard conditions and it being terrifyingly steep and exposed. Would highly recommend for people with stronger stomachs than me
Fun climb in an awe inspiring setting! Attached TR to main page...
Solo climb via Hörnli Ridge after spending the night at the hut. Engaging climbing, beautiful weather, gorgeous views - classic route on iconic mountain!
Spent the night in the winter room of the Hörnli hut and climbed the hörnli ridge.
Went up from Cervinia. One day off being the 100th anniversary but still a great experience. Had a swim in the lake by the Marguerita hut to celebrate!
Tripreport here: http://www.jeroenvels.nl/matterhorn-noordwand-schmid-route-tdv/
Move slowly, so slept in Solvay
Start at around 5 am at the Hörnli hut. Took us 5:45 to the summit. Around 50 People on the ridge with the half of them guided partys.
The swiss guides should be a bit more relaxed. Some of them treated their customer like a dog on a leash.
Soloed to above the Solvay Hut and then roped up when the rock got snowy near the start of the series of fixed ropes up high. Did 3 raps on the descent. 9:20 Hörnli Hut to Hörnli Hut. Great weather and conditions... a fitting gift from the mountain gods after our first attempt in 2009 was foiled by a big storm that dumped a foot of snow on the mountain.
What a day, what a mountain.
The moment when you reach the summit ridge in early morning light is simply... indescribable.
Clear skies for a few days but cold winds high on the mountain. Dufourspitze earlier in the week didn't get me completely acclimated so I was moving a little slow. The upper slabs were harder than I expected and would be very difficult to protect without the fixed ropes. So I give big cred's to the pioneers.
Climbed with Erik. The climb was beautiful and the summit was fantastic. We had good weather for the climb but it clouded up and started snowing during the descent. Though I am very glad I climbed it, I wouldn't have chosen to climb if I had realized how many unprotected sections have the potential for a fatal fall.