I didn't really like the route, it was too irrational and full of loose rocks. We were damn slow and had to bivouac on the mountain; fortunately it wasn't too cold. There was a storm with sleet and thunders, I even got slightly zapped by a lightning on the descent, around Pic Tyndall. The Carrel shelter was really nice.
Having had unsettled weather for several days we set out from the Hörnli hut at 6 am in starlight. There was a lot of snow and ice on the Matterhorn this year which demanded going with crampons almost all the way. The traffic was not bad, only 25 persons on the mountain, this day. The weather stayed beautiful but I still had a hard time on this famous mountain. Finally, we were rewarded with some fabulous minutes at the summit before going the long way down, (August 8, 1997).
I climbed this route with my friends Pau, Pepe and Dani.
With Pepe we climbed Mont Blanc,Monte Rosa and Matterhorn in only seven days!! An I had only 21 years old!!
One of the happiest days in my life for the summit and for complete the trilogy!
The route very crowded! This is the dangerous factor of its route
First attempt: August 6, I climbed solo to Refugee Carrell.Very foggy day but no snowfall so it was possible to climb without big problems.Spent a night in Carrell.During the night there was a huge snowfall. In the morning it was still snowing and visibility was really bad.I climbed few pitches above Carrell but it was to risky to continue so I decided to get back at about 4000 masl.I didn't have time to spent another night so I had to get down to Breuil.
Second attempt: with SP Member Brade we climbed to Solvay and stayed there due to huge snowfall. After 3 days we decided to get down- it took us 11 hours to Hornlihutte!Definitely to risky.
Waiting for the third chance.
Tried the route in a beautiful day after some days of heavy snowfalls. There were no problems until Capanna di Carrel, and on the next morning we started very early (4 a.m.) and in the bright moonshine very quickly did the part of the route up to the Grand Corda. But after climbing it we found that the opposite side of the ridge by which we were supposed to climb Tindal was covered by thick and soft snow. This snow stopped our advance and after some hesitation we decided to come back, because it was really dangerous to continue the climb in such condition. It was a pity, as the weather was just unbelievable! Very warm, quite and clear.
sorry, I just correct the date of my climb (1989 and not 1990)!
Climbed with G. IMBERT
a mountain where you really feel isolated on the top, unlike mount blanc... quite strange.
the descent on the Hörnli is quite long, nearly as long as climbing it up, and in my view, the good solution is to make the traverse. Quite logical, beautiful, and enable to think about history and the Whymper-Carrel challenge...
Fine weather, very little route-finding problems, decent conditions made for a great climb. Watching another climber on the way up fall 600ft to his death led the climb to a sad mood all around though. A scary looking mountain that should be treated with extreme care, but MUST be climbed...
First attempt at the mountain, and was lucky to get a great break in some variable weather that week. Route was clear and not as busy as I expected. Lots of folk had turned round at the solvay so not a busy descent. Left at 4am, topped out at 8am, and back down by 12.
Left the Hornli Hut a little after 4:30 and climbed the ridge solo in 3:50, topping out in strong winds and clear skies. Descended in about the same time, rappeling the slabs around the Solvay hut with the rope I carried. I cannot overstate the importance of scouting the lower parts of the route in daylight before a climb. There were some very lost parties doing crazy things in the dark that morning.
Having been turned back in mid August by collapsing weather it was very cool to complete the ascent on my second attempt.
Left the Hornli Hut at 4AM and reached the summit just before 8AM in strong wind and clear skies. The route was in very good condition and there were only about 15 people climbing, so I was able to move quickly (no issues with bottlenecking or rockfall). I scouted the first hour of the route the day before, so there were no routefinding issues in the dark. I actually had more routefinding problems on the descent, which took about 4.5 hours. When I left for the Alps this year, I hoped that I would get a chance to climb the Matterhorn. I didn't expect that I would climb it solo though, but it just turned out that way.
Weather bad the first time so we were four of only five to reach the summit that day. Long day. Very crowded on other ascents.
Nobody on the route, unbelievable! Clear sky and moderate cold. Perfrct climb. Did the summit and returned to the Carrel hut in 10 hours. Very beautiful route
Good climb. Very crowded, but it was to do it at least once.
Brother and I were beaten down by storm just below the Solvay Hut. What a splendid mountain though. Deserves a second go. Or third for that matter.
It was a life-long dream to climb this dramatic pyramid. It took me years of preparation and delays before I reached the summit in the company of my 2 sons (more details in Trip Report).
Had no intention of going for the summit, just a bit of a recon' trip. Climbed the first two pitches. found the route in a lite covering of snow. Worth doing so if i go back i now know the section that i will be doing in the dark.
Retreat on 4000m, bad incoming weather.
a wonderful weather(0 degre celsius at 4500m)
We started from the Hornli hut at 4.45 am and reached the summit at 8.15.
I juste struggled a lit a bit at the end of the fixed ropes section leading to the summit snow slope:
The is a mobile ladder you have to hold from one hand and at the same time getting with the other a rope to lift you to the last terrasse.
My timing was wrong and i needed 3 trials!
That left me without strength in my forearms.
I realised then the route is very difficult to find and that you could easily get lost on the east face which could be fatal.
Indeed i witnessed a huge rocks fall on the east face and was told it is not unusual.
I needed 3 hours to climb down as you have to be very careful and keep your full concentration.
What a great experience!