MountaingirlBC - Aug 8, 2009 3:53 pm Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2008
Spanked!
Changed plans from the Italian side to Hornli after storms had coated the mountain in ice. The fact that there hadn't been a single guide on the mountain all week should probably have been a red flag but we decided to go for it anyway. Us, and about 13 other climbers Forrest Gumped our way through rock that alternated between being encased in ice to crumbling beneath our feet before finally admitting defeat just below the Solvay hut. Made it back to the Hornli hut 18 hours after we'd set out that morning. Oh well... still a hell of a day out. Next time!
radson - Aug 7, 2009 4:43 am Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2009
Perfect Weather
Not as crowded as feared. Fun climb, descent was a bit monotonous towards the end. Overall a lot more fun than I expected.
Jek - Feb 3, 2009 9:41 pm Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2007
Hörnligrat
It was just second ascent in my life to 4000m peak. Though there was realy many people it was amazing climb and experience for me.
alejandro - Oct 18, 2008 9:24 pm Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2004
Hornli Ridge
It was a life-time achievement. Once fitness and weather conditions permitted an opportunity to ascend, I was climbing a mountain I've marveled my whole life. It was a privilege and an emotional accomplishment, culminating many previous attempts at rock climbing. Once it's over and done with, you're a more humble person, understanding that it is elements of nature that have the upper hand and you're just there to enjoy yourself and grow as a person.
In good conditions. Experienced a bivouc and a heli rescue below us.
Corvus - Aug 31, 2008 7:39 am Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2008
Cresta del leone / Lion ridge
Climbed in one day the Mattehorn by Lion ridge. From Duca degli Abruzzi to the summit in 5 h 30 min and the same time to go down. From the "Gran corda" to the "scala Jordan" by using crampons. Absolutely a great experience, a great feat.
pablo - Aug 12, 2008 10:51 am Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2008
Route Climbed: Hornli Ridge
After trying last year and early this summer (weather did not allow), this 3rd time the dream becomes true.
Excellent and hard climb of 10 hours up and down:
4h30am Rolando and I leave the hut, just after Zermatt guides & their clients. 9h30am we are in the summit alone. We are in the middle of the faster and the slower ropes. Weather is good but annouced deterioration is coming up. This forecast is the reason why not too many people climbing today. We hurry down to the hut which we reach at 2h30pm. We take some refreshment and down to the telecabine which we reach at 4pm. Down to Zermatt then to enjoy some beer and typical saussages.
All in all, a wonderful though tough experience enabled fundamentally by friendship with Rolando and good dose of determination and preparation.
mvs - Jul 30, 2008 11:26 am Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2008
Route Climbed: Hoernli Ridge
Very worthwhile and exhausting climb! We had plenty of snow on the ridge in previous days/weeks, and even new snow the night before. It took us a long time compared to many of the times I see here (very impressive). Walking at 4:00 am. At the Solvay Hut at 8:00 am. On the summit at 11:00 am. Back to the Hoernli Hut at 7:15 pm.
Out of 45-50 people attempting, it seemed that 14 (including us) made the summit. We were the last summitters by about 30 minutes, which gave wonderful solitude on the summit and the way down!
With Theron Welch. (SP user "OZNID").
oddsverre - Apr 27, 2008 10:28 am Date Climbed: Jun 22, 2006
Matterhorn
I'm loving it!
Cyrill - Nov 8, 2007 4:43 am Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2007
MasonMiller - Oct 22, 2007 2:09 pm Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2007
Big day
Unfortuneatly a meter of new snow prevented the summit opportunity. Though it was a perfect day for climbing... self preservation came up as priority. A fantastic climb, understandable danger, loose rock is for certain, but a focused mind and steady step... this beast can be accomplished. made it about 3/4.
badyl - Jul 26, 2007 2:44 am Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2006
Lion's Ridge - 3 attempts but no success
We've had so far 3 attempts on this route, one in June, one in the end of August followed by one in September, all in 2006. Two times we reached the Carrel Hut and spend some time there but were stopped by heavy winds and snow storms, every time every piece of the route looked very different. We didn't use the normal route on this side as it was too dangerous, but went early up the couloir to the Col de Leone.
This year in early July it was too dangereous to even start the route, a pity as I have enough of staying on the Italian side and next time probably we'll try from the Swiss side. Anyway I've learned a lot:))
J Fox - Jun 26, 2007 11:28 am Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2004
Hornli Ridge
Despite the crowds this rates as the climb of a lifetime. I climbed this with a Scottish guide and we both had a great time. The weather was spot on and we were both climbing well. We simul-climbed the entire route and made it up and down in 7 hours, we got stuck in a lot of traffic though. Jonny thinks we could have done it in 5.5 hours if we hadn't had so many people on the mountain with us. I had heard bad things about the route quality but I thought the rock was solid, the exposure tremendous and the views to die for. Definitely a mountain worth visiting despite the crowds.
Britette - May 24, 2007 11:38 am Date Climbed: Jul 19, 1996
Matterhorn Hornli Ridge
First on the summit that day. Luckily my friend and climbing partner is one of the top guides in the area, so he made sure we were in front! Awesome climb - it jazzed me totally for the rest of the summer.
Kaallin Krimp - Feb 12, 2007 10:31 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2006
Hörnli Ridge
A perfect day, clear sky and no wind. Started out at about 4:00 and reached the summit at 7:15. We could not have a better day to try the Matterhorn.
brade - Jan 28, 2007 1:13 pm Date Climbed: Mar 20, 2006
Winter attempt, Hörnli route
attempt: with SP Member JCK we climbed to Solvay at 20-03-2006 holding ridge line almost all the time(!) because of powder snow on both sides(traverses were to dangerous). It was snowing half of way up. Not very difficult but risky/hard conditions.
We stayed there due to huge snowfall. After 3 days we decided to get down not reaching the Summit (we had no more time to attack the top)- it took us 11 hours of descending to Hornlihutte! Felt like on snow minefield
Waiting for the second chance.
Read our Trip Report: Matterhorn in Winter Tastes Bittersweet
Borsa - Nov 11, 2006 3:46 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2005
Unsucces on Matterhorn
We had to turn 300m under the summit because a weather got worse.
We climbed by Hörnligrat.
What a pyramid from the bottom. A must. Left hut at 4.55. QUite some crowd. Solvay hut at 7am, summit at 8.30. Breathtakingly exposed summit. descent in 3 hrs, takes loooonger than expected. Technically not difficult climb, but strenuous as almost permanent rock climibing (I or II grade, some III). Enormous potential to lose route especially when descending. Likely need crampons on top (we put on at 4200m). We met quite some people (even solo!) without crampons up there. That's the risky folks that cause the bad reputation of the Horn. Several turned around! A dream climb in the end...
MountaingirlBC - Aug 8, 2009 3:53 pm Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2008
Spanked!Changed plans from the Italian side to Hornli after storms had coated the mountain in ice. The fact that there hadn't been a single guide on the mountain all week should probably have been a red flag but we decided to go for it anyway. Us, and about 13 other climbers Forrest Gumped our way through rock that alternated between being encased in ice to crumbling beneath our feet before finally admitting defeat just below the Solvay hut. Made it back to the Hornli hut 18 hours after we'd set out that morning. Oh well... still a hell of a day out. Next time!
radson - Aug 7, 2009 4:43 am Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2009
Perfect WeatherNot as crowded as feared. Fun climb, descent was a bit monotonous towards the end. Overall a lot more fun than I expected.
Jek - Feb 3, 2009 9:41 pm Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2007
HörnligratIt was just second ascent in my life to 4000m peak. Though there was realy many people it was amazing climb and experience for me.
alejandro - Oct 18, 2008 9:24 pm Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2004
Hornli RidgeIt was a life-time achievement. Once fitness and weather conditions permitted an opportunity to ascend, I was climbing a mountain I've marveled my whole life. It was a privilege and an emotional accomplishment, culminating many previous attempts at rock climbing. Once it's over and done with, you're a more humble person, understanding that it is elements of nature that have the upper hand and you're just there to enjoy yourself and grow as a person.
PeterCorneliusSpaeth - Sep 11, 2008 3:23 pm Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2008
Hörnli RidgeIn good conditions. Experienced a bivouc and a heli rescue below us.
Corvus - Aug 31, 2008 7:39 am Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2008
Cresta del leone / Lion ridgeClimbed in one day the Mattehorn by Lion ridge. From Duca degli Abruzzi to the summit in 5 h 30 min and the same time to go down. From the "Gran corda" to the "scala Jordan" by using crampons. Absolutely a great experience, a great feat.
pablo - Aug 12, 2008 10:51 am Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2008
Route Climbed: Hornli RidgeAfter trying last year and early this summer (weather did not allow), this 3rd time the dream becomes true.
Excellent and hard climb of 10 hours up and down:
4h30am Rolando and I leave the hut, just after Zermatt guides & their clients. 9h30am we are in the summit alone. We are in the middle of the faster and the slower ropes. Weather is good but annouced deterioration is coming up. This forecast is the reason why not too many people climbing today. We hurry down to the hut which we reach at 2h30pm. We take some refreshment and down to the telecabine which we reach at 4pm. Down to Zermatt then to enjoy some beer and typical saussages.
All in all, a wonderful though tough experience enabled fundamentally by friendship with Rolando and good dose of determination and preparation.
mvs - Jul 30, 2008 11:26 am Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2008
Route Climbed: Hoernli RidgeVery worthwhile and exhausting climb! We had plenty of snow on the ridge in previous days/weeks, and even new snow the night before. It took us a long time compared to many of the times I see here (very impressive). Walking at 4:00 am. At the Solvay Hut at 8:00 am. On the summit at 11:00 am. Back to the Hoernli Hut at 7:15 pm.
Out of 45-50 people attempting, it seemed that 14 (including us) made the summit. We were the last summitters by about 30 minutes, which gave wonderful solitude on the summit and the way down!
With Theron Welch. (SP user "OZNID").
oddsverre - Apr 27, 2008 10:28 am Date Climbed: Jun 22, 2006
MatterhornI'm loving it!
Cyrill - Nov 8, 2007 4:43 am Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2007
Matterhorn 4478mFantastic Tour to Matterhorn 4478m.
my picture are here: Link to Matterhorn 4478m
MasonMiller - Oct 22, 2007 2:09 pm Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2007
Big dayUnfortuneatly a meter of new snow prevented the summit opportunity. Though it was a perfect day for climbing... self preservation came up as priority. A fantastic climb, understandable danger, loose rock is for certain, but a focused mind and steady step... this beast can be accomplished. made it about 3/4.
Jek - Feb 3, 2009 9:52 pm
Re: Cresta Del Leone/Arete Du LionWe was at summit in same day ;)..
Jek
badyl - Jul 26, 2007 2:44 am Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2006
Lion's Ridge - 3 attempts but no successWe've had so far 3 attempts on this route, one in June, one in the end of August followed by one in September, all in 2006. Two times we reached the Carrel Hut and spend some time there but were stopped by heavy winds and snow storms, every time every piece of the route looked very different. We didn't use the normal route on this side as it was too dangerous, but went early up the couloir to the Col de Leone.
This year in early July it was too dangereous to even start the route, a pity as I have enough of staying on the Italian side and next time probably we'll try from the Swiss side. Anyway I've learned a lot:))
J Fox - Jun 26, 2007 11:28 am Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2004
Hornli RidgeDespite the crowds this rates as the climb of a lifetime. I climbed this with a Scottish guide and we both had a great time. The weather was spot on and we were both climbing well. We simul-climbed the entire route and made it up and down in 7 hours, we got stuck in a lot of traffic though. Jonny thinks we could have done it in 5.5 hours if we hadn't had so many people on the mountain with us. I had heard bad things about the route quality but I thought the rock was solid, the exposure tremendous and the views to die for. Definitely a mountain worth visiting despite the crowds.
Britette - May 24, 2007 11:38 am Date Climbed: Jul 19, 1996
Matterhorn Hornli RidgeFirst on the summit that day. Luckily my friend and climbing partner is one of the top guides in the area, so he made sure we were in front! Awesome climb - it jazzed me totally for the rest of the summer.
Kaallin Krimp - Feb 12, 2007 10:31 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2006
Hörnli RidgeA perfect day, clear sky and no wind. Started out at about 4:00 and reached the summit at 7:15. We could not have a better day to try the Matterhorn.
brade - Jan 28, 2007 1:13 pm Date Climbed: Mar 20, 2006
Winter attempt, Hörnli routeattempt: with SP Member JCK we climbed to Solvay at 20-03-2006 holding ridge line almost all the time(!) because of powder snow on both sides(traverses were to dangerous). It was snowing half of way up. Not very difficult but risky/hard conditions.
We stayed there due to huge snowfall. After 3 days we decided to get down not reaching the Summit (we had no more time to attack the top)- it took us 11 hours of descending to Hornlihutte! Felt like on snow minefield
Waiting for the second chance.
Read our Trip Report:
Matterhorn in Winter Tastes Bittersweet
Borsa - Nov 11, 2006 3:46 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2005
Unsucces on MatterhornWe had to turn 300m under the summit because a weather got worse.
We climbed by Hörnligrat.
Bas Visscher - Nov 6, 2006 9:21 pm
pffffreturned due hard wind, will only try it again via the zmuttridge
oxygen11 - Sep 13, 2006 9:00 pm Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2006
Hörnli ClimbWhat a pyramid from the bottom. A must. Left hut at 4.55. QUite some crowd. Solvay hut at 7am, summit at 8.30. Breathtakingly exposed summit. descent in 3 hrs, takes loooonger than expected. Technically not difficult climb, but strenuous as almost permanent rock climibing (I or II grade, some III). Enormous potential to lose route especially when descending. Likely need crampons on top (we put on at 4200m). We met quite some people (even solo!) without crampons up there. That's the risky folks that cause the bad reputation of the Horn. Several turned around! A dream climb in the end...