Matterhorn (Oregon) Climber's Log

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onandupwards - Dec 1, 2005 10:07 pm

Route Climbed: Ice Lake Date Climbed: July 24,2005  Sucess!

Did it as a 3 day, with 2 nights at Ice Lake. Deer on the way up, and mountain goats right before the penultimate scree pitch.

Next time, take enough food/water and leave early enough on summit day to give the Sacaj traverse a try. 1 or 2 weeks earlier in season would have left better snow cover.

Be sure to quench with a dip in Wallowa lake on the way out.


thundercloud - Sep 18, 2005 10:58 pm

Route Climbed: Ice Lake Date Climbed: September 4, 2005  Sucess!

Followed Whymper's footsteps to the top from the lake. Ice Lake is a magnificent place!

Don Nelsen

Don Nelsen - Sep 24, 2004 8:06 pm

Route Climbed: East face up from Ice Lake Date Climbed: Sept. 1, 1985  Sucess!

The first time I climbed up here after backpacking in to Ice Lake with two of my bros and a couple of other friends. Great spot - what an incredible drop down to the valley on the west side!

Strange geology - looks like limestone - what's that doing up here mixed in with the granite and the volcanic stuff?

went back in '96 for a two-mountain trip in a day.


Cornvallis - Sep 30, 2003 1:51 am

Route Climbed: Traverse from Sacajawea Date Climbed: September 27, 2003  Sucess!

Reached the summit of Sacajawea and couldn't resist the ridge scramble over to the Matterhorn. Despite time constraints and a little fatigue, I was just to close to not give it a try. Decided that I couldn't take any longer than an hour both ways, so I had to run along the ridge in the spots where I could. Very fun scramble with some good exposure in a few places. Rock along the ridge is crumbly and makes for some interesting climbing in places, choose your foot and hand holds very carefully! Reached the summit of the Matterhorn in 45 exhausting minutes. Unfortunately only had enough time to eat a bar, take some photos, and wave and talk to my climbing partners, Annaleiserabinek and Dean, on the radio a mile and a half back on the summit of Sacajawea. Well worth it though! Rock on and near the summit is bazaar, very different from Sacajawea even though they are so close. Wish I had more time to spend up top, but I had to sprint back over to join my partners for the decent. Got back to Sacajawea in another exhausting 45 minutes, and headed back down. Great day. Didn't see another soul on the entire route all day!


pdeangeli - Sep 9, 2003 6:50 pm

Route Climbed: East Ridge via Ice Lake Date Climbed: September 7, 2003  Sucess!

Great morning hike from camp at Ice Lake, but weather was turning and wind picking up so we quickly descended, rather than commit to Sacajawea. Wet snow chased us out of there Mon morning. Great to see the goats on the nearby ridges, and deer walking through camp.


cjwhat - Jul 14, 2003 9:55 am

Route Climbed: East Ridge via Ice Lake Date Climbed: July 10, 2003  Sucess!

Route clear and well established.


climberkristin - Jul 7, 2003 3:52 pm

Route Climbed: ice lake to summit Date Climbed: July 5, 2003  Sucess!

camped at Ice Lake, jaunt up to Matterhorn and then a dodgy scree filled scramble to gain a meager 12 feet and the summit of Sacajawea. Straight down scree wall into Thorpe Valley and up snowfield to ridgeline above Ice Lake again. SPF50 weather and a nice time for a dip in the lake!


TNT825 - Oct 15, 2002 9:56 pm

Route Climbed: East Ridge Via Ice Lake Date Climbed: 10/12/02  Sucess!

Made the hike to Ice Lake in the dark which was very cold. There wasn't really any snow. The climb was pretty straightfoward, there were no problems. Everyone should check out Jumping Dog camp at Ice Lake.


rpc - Oct 7, 2002 9:03 am

Date Climbed: 10/5/02  Sucess!

Hiked up to Ice Lake in foggy/cold conditions. The fog/clouds parted a few times at Ice Lk. to reveal the whitetish face of Matterhorn. Cleared the fog just above Ice Lake. Spectacular views from top although most of the low lands were shrouded in fog. Got a decent view of Eagle Cap from top. Beautiful area.


darinchadwick - Sep 17, 2002 11:22 am

Route Climbed: East ridge from Ice Lake Date Climbed: September 1993  Sucess!

The wind at Ice Lake was dreadful

And our tent was old and torn.

Of fresh air and water we had our heads full

Though our boots were wet and worn.

Ill prepared for the mountains we were,

Of that you can be sure,

But the time we had,

wasn't half bad,

Never resist the mountains lure.

Bob Bolton

Bob Bolton - Dec 30, 2001 1:19 pm

Route Climbed: East slopes Date Climbed: July 1986  Sucess!

My friend Bob and I went to the Wallowas for a weekend trip in July 1986. We hiked to Ice Lake and camped there. On the way up to the lake we were passed by a couple of very fit lady teachers from Alaska who said they were planning to climb Matterhorn as well. We didn't see where they were camped, but in the morning they got a head start on us, then waited for us to catch up, and we all climbed together. The route is easy to follow and the views are great! Now that we know that Sacajawea is higher then Matterhorn, I wish we had taken the time for it as well!

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