bedellympian - Oct 11, 2011 3:46 pm Date Climbed: Oct 9, 2011
Early Snow
I wanted to bag a last fall peak before heading up to the NW on a road trip. Had a freak snow storm in the Sierras a couple days before but decided to try the Matterhorn anyway because of easy access from Twin Lakes. It was a beautiful sunny day. Got only up to about 8500' and was post-holing through to my waist. Guess I'll have to try another time.
aran - Oct 1, 2011 8:42 pm Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2011
Snow, sleet, hail- "0% chance of percipitation" on North Arete
Great trip- watched summer turn to fall turn to early winter over night. The snow field has retreated off the gully so access without crampons wasn't so bad. Beautiful summit, though snowing when we got there! Turned to rain as we descended all the way back to Twin Lakes. Excellent weekend.
Drewid - Sep 8, 2011 4:55 pm Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2011
SE Slog
A beautiful day hike up the Horse Creek drainage to the pass and on up but lord what a scree slog for the last mile or so. Round trip 12 hours. Plan to traverse the Sawtooth Crest next so this hike was good recon. Great summit perch and killer steep view back down toward Twin Lakes and out to the east.
Day climb from Twin Lakes. Without any more beta than is implied in the name of the route, I tried to stick to the arete and keep technical climbing difficulties less than 5.7. Though at the beginning I started off left of center. As pointed out by most other ascensionists, there is a lot of loose rock down low but it gets much more solid up high.
bobmc - Aug 27, 2011 6:33 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2011
SE Slope to S Ridge
Day 1 of Sierra Challenge 2011 (alt. challenge peak). Beautiful hike -- columbines in full bloom. Climbed the sandy slog to the right of the snowfield below the summit; then traversed to S ridge.
ElGreco - Aug 14, 2011 6:16 pm Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2011
Up West couloir, down East couloir
Summited with Ann and Mathew. Perfect weather and conditions! Fun 4th/low 5th scrambling near top of W couloir. E couloir descent easier (3rd).
WayneFry - Jun 29, 2011 1:33 am Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2011
West Couloir
Up Horse Creek, base camped with SMG (Sierra Mountaineering Group) at 10,000 ft. Climbed west couloir then down climbed an icy 50 ft slope on the other side. Scrambled up a 3rd class gully then hit a rather steep snow slope. Climbed that slope with a fixed line and continued to the summit with more 3-4 class scrambling. Decended by way of the east couloir. The views from the top are most certainly worth the effort.
Climbed this one in great slow heavy style up from Horse Creek with a few great people. Continued down Matterhorn to Cold Canyons and on out to the Meadows.
Iron Hiker - Nov 18, 2010 11:47 pm Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2010
Long climb but magnificent views!
A very nice summit in a beautiful area. The climb is long, though! The last slope is a little anticlimatic but the summit was spectacular. Had a little altitude headache at the last part but it went away after some rest and deep breathing. The climb took almost 11 hours.
A challenging day hike from Twin Lakes brought us to the top although the scree did its best to stop us. Great peak and view.
mdougherty - Aug 27, 2010 3:42 am Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2010
Southeast Slopes
Up the scree in high wind with an SPS group.
jspeigl - Aug 24, 2010 12:16 pm Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2010
Southeast Slope
A beautiful day up the sandy southeast slope from Spiller creek.
emilie - Aug 16, 2010 8:53 pm Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2010
North Arete
Guided by Tony Brown of MAS. Tough climb for me even on second. Amazing route, beautiful views. Would highly recommend but you must be good at route finding.
nickL - Aug 2, 2010 3:25 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2009
East Couloir
Fun time going up the East Couloir. We ended up camping out near a pond at about 9800 ft the first day. Amazing views once you get to the base of the Matterhorn glacer. No snow in the couloir by this time of year so we had to scratch our way up loose rocks. Best part of the climb was the last couple hundred feet once you get out of the couloir.
justing - Aug 2, 2010 3:16 pm Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2010
North Arete
Climbed the North Arete with rhyang in great weather. Interesting route, and on the hike out we were carried home by the sounds of a rather lame cover band playing Honky Tonk Woman and other standards at the Mono Village Resort.
rhyang - Jul 31, 2010 10:43 am Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2010
North Arete
Swapped leads with Justin - I led pitches 2, 4 and 6. Got off-route on pitch 4 and ended up below the Double Dihedral. Justin led back to the N Arete proper on pitch 5, around the chockstone. The last pitch was good and sustained.
Camped at the tarn at ~9800'. Perfect summer day.
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Route climbed: West Couloir
Date climbed: 13-June-2010
Snow-camped at 9800' the night before, then did the west couloir the next morning. Fun scrambling, descended third class ledges back to the east couloir, which was about half melted out (and somewhat crowded -- greeted four people who were coming up it :)
Beautiful day, somewhat hot by afternoon. Snow level about 8500-9000', melting fast.
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Also did the east couloir (descended via Horse Creek Pass) in May 2008.
jonhersh - Jul 27, 2010 1:25 pm Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2009
SE slope
Had a nice campsite just over Horse Creek Pass. Very smokey on top due to the fires in Yosemite.
pjc30943 - Jul 9, 2010 12:20 am Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2010
North Arete
Awesome camp spot on the moraine, much closer and more convenient than the lake. Currently lots of water all over the place, no need to bring virtually any water on the approach. Good route with lots of loose rock in the first half, but really fun on the second.
bedellympian - Oct 11, 2011 3:46 pm Date Climbed: Oct 9, 2011
Early SnowI wanted to bag a last fall peak before heading up to the NW on a road trip. Had a freak snow storm in the Sierras a couple days before but decided to try the Matterhorn anyway because of easy access from Twin Lakes. It was a beautiful sunny day. Got only up to about 8500' and was post-holing through to my waist. Guess I'll have to try another time.
aran - Oct 1, 2011 8:42 pm Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2011
Snow, sleet, hail- "0% chance of percipitation" on North AreteGreat trip- watched summer turn to fall turn to early winter over night. The snow field has retreated off the gully so access without crampons wasn't so bad. Beautiful summit, though snowing when we got there! Turned to rain as we descended all the way back to Twin Lakes. Excellent weekend.
Drewid - Sep 8, 2011 4:55 pm Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2011
SE SlogA beautiful day hike up the Horse Creek drainage to the pass and on up but lord what a scree slog for the last mile or so. Round trip 12 hours. Plan to traverse the Sawtooth Crest next so this hike was good recon. Great summit perch and killer steep view back down toward Twin Lakes and out to the east.
atavist - Sep 6, 2011 1:06 pm Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2011
North Arete, approximatelyDay climb from Twin Lakes. Without any more beta than is implied in the name of the route, I tried to stick to the arete and keep technical climbing difficulties less than 5.7. Though at the beginning I started off left of center. As pointed out by most other ascensionists, there is a lot of loose rock down low but it gets much more solid up high.
bobmc - Aug 27, 2011 6:33 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2011
SE Slope to S RidgeDay 1 of Sierra Challenge 2011 (alt. challenge peak). Beautiful hike -- columbines in full bloom. Climbed the sandy slog to the right of the snowfield below the summit; then traversed to S ridge.
ElGreco - Aug 14, 2011 6:16 pm Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2011
Up West couloir, down East couloirSummited with Ann and Mathew. Perfect weather and conditions! Fun 4th/low 5th scrambling near top of W couloir. E couloir descent easier (3rd).
WayneFry - Jun 29, 2011 1:33 am Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2011
West CouloirUp Horse Creek, base camped with SMG (Sierra Mountaineering Group) at 10,000 ft. Climbed west couloir then down climbed an icy 50 ft slope on the other side. Scrambled up a 3rd class gully then hit a rather steep snow slope. Climbed that slope with a fixed line and continued to the summit with more 3-4 class scrambling. Decended by way of the east couloir. The views from the top are most certainly worth the effort.
Vitaliy M. - Jun 28, 2011 5:07 pm
Nice soloSolo dayhike from Twin Lakes via east couloir. Cool half of day outing.
mountainmatt - Feb 7, 2011 9:36 pm
Kerouac StyleClimbed this one in great slow heavy style up from Horse Creek with a few great people. Continued down Matterhorn to Cold Canyons and on out to the Meadows.
Iron Hiker - Nov 18, 2010 11:47 pm Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2010
Long climb but magnificent views!A very nice summit in a beautiful area. The climb is long, though! The last slope is a little anticlimatic but the summit was spectacular. Had a little altitude headache at the last part but it went away after some rest and deep breathing. The climb took almost 11 hours.
xharv - Sep 15, 2010 3:14 pm Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2010
Southeast SlopeDay hike from Twin Lakes via Horse Creek basin. Eleven hours round trip.
hauntedbymediocrity - Sep 6, 2010 1:46 pm Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2010
Southeast Slope day hikeA challenging day hike from Twin Lakes brought us to the top although the scree did its best to stop us. Great peak and view.
mdougherty - Aug 27, 2010 3:42 am Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2010
Southeast SlopesUp the scree in high wind with an SPS group.
jspeigl - Aug 24, 2010 12:16 pm Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2010
Southeast SlopeA beautiful day up the sandy southeast slope from Spiller creek.
emilie - Aug 16, 2010 8:53 pm Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2010
North AreteGuided by Tony Brown of MAS. Tough climb for me even on second. Amazing route, beautiful views. Would highly recommend but you must be good at route finding.
nickL - Aug 2, 2010 3:25 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2009
East CouloirFun time going up the East Couloir. We ended up camping out near a pond at about 9800 ft the first day. Amazing views once you get to the base of the Matterhorn glacer. No snow in the couloir by this time of year so we had to scratch our way up loose rocks. Best part of the climb was the last couple hundred feet once you get out of the couloir.
justing - Aug 2, 2010 3:16 pm Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2010
North AreteClimbed the North Arete with rhyang in great weather. Interesting route, and on the hike out we were carried home by the sounds of a rather lame cover band playing Honky Tonk Woman and other standards at the Mono Village Resort.
rhyang - Jul 31, 2010 10:43 am Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2010
North AreteSwapped leads with Justin - I led pitches 2, 4 and 6. Got off-route on pitch 4 and ended up below the Double Dihedral. Justin led back to the N Arete proper on pitch 5, around the chockstone. The last pitch was good and sustained.
Camped at the tarn at ~9800'. Perfect summer day.
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Route climbed: West Couloir
Date climbed: 13-June-2010
Snow-camped at 9800' the night before, then did the west couloir the next morning. Fun scrambling, descended third class ledges back to the east couloir, which was about half melted out (and somewhat crowded -- greeted four people who were coming up it :)
Beautiful day, somewhat hot by afternoon. Snow level about 8500-9000', melting fast.
--
Also did the east couloir (descended via Horse Creek Pass) in May 2008.
jonhersh - Jul 27, 2010 1:25 pm Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2009
SE slopeHad a nice campsite just over Horse Creek Pass. Very smokey on top due to the fires in Yosemite.
pjc30943 - Jul 9, 2010 12:20 am Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2010
North AreteAwesome camp spot on the moraine, much closer and more convenient than the lake. Currently lots of water all over the place, no need to bring virtually any water on the approach. Good route with lots of loose rock in the first half, but really fun on the second.