I wanted to bag a last fall peak before heading up to the NW on a road trip. Had a freak snow storm in the Sierras a couple days before but decided to try the Matterhorn anyway because of easy access from Twin Lakes. It was a beautiful sunny day. Got only up to about 8500' and was post-holing through to my waist. Guess I'll have to try another time.
Great trip- watched summer turn to fall turn to early winter over night. The snow field has retreated off the gully so access without crampons wasn't so bad. Beautiful summit, though snowing when we got there! Turned to rain as we descended all the way back to Twin Lakes. Excellent weekend.
A beautiful day hike up the Horse Creek drainage to the pass and on up but lord what a scree slog for the last mile or so. Round trip 12 hours. Plan to traverse the Sawtooth Crest next so this hike was good recon. Great summit perch and killer steep view back down toward Twin Lakes and out to the east.
Day climb from Twin Lakes. Without any more beta than is implied in the name of the route, I tried to stick to the arete and keep technical climbing difficulties less than 5.7. Though at the beginning I started off left of center. As pointed out by most other ascensionists, there is a lot of loose rock down low but it gets much more solid up high.
Day 1 of Sierra Challenge 2011 (alt. challenge peak). Beautiful hike -- columbines in full bloom. Climbed the sandy slog to the right of the snowfield below the summit; then traversed to S ridge.
Summited with Ann and Mathew. Perfect weather and conditions! Fun 4th/low 5th scrambling near top of W couloir. E couloir descent easier (3rd).
Up Horse Creek, base camped with SMG (Sierra Mountaineering Group) at 10,000 ft. Climbed west couloir then down climbed an icy 50 ft slope on the other side. Scrambled up a 3rd class gully then hit a rather steep snow slope. Climbed that slope with a fixed line and continued to the summit with more 3-4 class scrambling. Decended by way of the east couloir. The views from the top are most certainly worth the effort.
Solo dayhike from Twin Lakes via east couloir. Cool half of day outing.
Climbed this one in great slow heavy style up from Horse Creek with a few great people. Continued down Matterhorn to Cold Canyons and on out to the Meadows.
A very nice summit in a beautiful area. The climb is long, though! The last slope is a little anticlimatic but the summit was spectacular. Had a little altitude headache at the last part but it went away after some rest and deep breathing. The climb took almost 11 hours.
Day hike from Twin Lakes via Horse Creek basin. Eleven hours round trip.
A challenging day hike from Twin Lakes brought us to the top although the scree did its best to stop us. Great peak and view.
Up the scree in high wind with an SPS group.
A beautiful day up the sandy southeast slope from Spiller creek.
Guided by Tony Brown of MAS. Tough climb for me even on second. Amazing route, beautiful views. Would highly recommend but you must be good at route finding.
Fun time going up the East Couloir. We ended up camping out near a pond at about 9800 ft the first day. Amazing views once you get to the base of the Matterhorn glacer. No snow in the couloir by this time of year so we had to scratch our way up loose rocks. Best part of the climb was the last couple hundred feet once you get out of the couloir.
Climbed the North Arete with rhyang in great weather. Interesting route, and on the hike out we were carried home by the sounds of a rather lame cover band playing Honky Tonk Woman and other standards at the Mono Village Resort.
Swapped leads with Justin - I led pitches 2, 4 and 6. Got off-route on pitch 4 and ended up below the Double Dihedral. Justin led back to the N Arete proper on pitch 5, around the chockstone. The last pitch was good and sustained.
Camped at the tarn at ~9800'. Perfect summer day.
Route climbed: West Couloir
Date climbed: 13-June-2010
Snow-camped at 9800' the night before, then did the west couloir the next morning. Fun scrambling, descended third class ledges back to the east couloir, which was about half melted out (and somewhat crowded -- greeted four people who were coming up it :)
Beautiful day, somewhat hot by afternoon. Snow level about 8500-9000', melting fast.
Also did the east couloir (descended via Horse Creek Pass) in May 2008.
Had a nice campsite just over Horse Creek Pass. Very smokey on top due to the fires in Yosemite.
Awesome camp spot on the moraine, much closer and more convenient than the lake. Currently lots of water all over the place, no need to bring virtually any water on the approach. Good route with lots of loose rock in the first half, but really fun on the second.