Inspiration is found
In soft snow and towering rock spires,
In fleeting shadows of clouds,
Not in the ramblings
Of some mediocre writer.
Awesome splitboarding trip. Even some wind-packed powder up at the top of Ski Dreams! I think I'm in love with these here Sierras.
Last pitch of Double Dihedral is one of the best pitches ever. Dihedral curves, pinches off, step to a white face with a 5.8 vertical crack system up to the tip of the pyramid....awesome.
Had planned on 4 days - nice easy trip. Made it up from Twin Lakes in an easy day. Set up camp by the small lake. Summited the next day. No issues. Did the North Arete. A bit hard to find the start. Kicked back in camp on Day 3 and hiked a bit. Decided to hike out that afternoon.
Adam and I postholed up to 8.4k (snowshoes in the car) for a winter attempt on the N. Arete. Twin Lakes was pretty dry but a recent storm had left a couple of feet of unconsolidated snow higher up. Ditched the rack and rope at camp and postholed another 4k feet the next morning, leaving the tent at 3am, on the summit by 10. Climbed the E. Couloir and ridge, soloing some 5th class rock to keep things interesting. Couldn't find summit register under the snow. Beautiful weather.
Didn't make the summit. I missed the trail hiking in from twin lakes and rambled through forest some boggy meadows and then took the wrong chute up toward Horse Creek pass. The snow was 2-3 feet deep and way too soft in the drifts at 9000 feet and the chute I picked was a very very bad choice. Oh well... it was a beautiful day and beautiful set of mountains.
Rained / snowed to scare a group of four of us away from the peak. We turned around at Horse Creek Pass.
Kerouac said it best "Here we are by the fresh pure lake walkin along in this good air, by God, it's a haiku in itself."
This was my first time in this area, and from twin lake up to the apline lake i was very exited to get climbing. The first day was great, hiking up to the base was warm for september. Then came the next day, it started out very, very nice. A few clouds in the sky to block the direct sun light, and no wind. But at about 10am after 3 pitches on the North Arete, the wind started to pick up a lot. Then sitting at a belay, i hear a yell from one of my party members, Dan. "i think we are going to start back down." When i got up to them, i look to the west and the sky had turned from a beautiful day to black clouds. So down we started, and after about 10 mins of setting up, it stated to snow, and got colder, and much winder. So we got down. The peak won the battle, but ill be back to win the war.
We camped at around 9200 feet in Horse Creek Canyon. It was extremely windy and hard to use our stove. The next day we hiked to the pass and started up Matterhorn Peak. This was a spur of the moment trip. We were driving through Bridgeport on our way to Bishop. We'd planned to do something in the Bishop Creek area. We both decided we didn't want to drive that far so we got a permit and headed to Twin Lakes. The lack of information about the area made for a fun little adventure. I did have the maps and a compass. The southeast slope was a slog, with bottomless loose gravel in a lot of places. Spiller Creek Canyon was so beautiful! After grunting our way up the loose rock and gravel, I found the summit ridge to be a lot of fun. We went straight up some very solid class three rock to reach it. The view from the top was amazing.
Aside from a lot of loose rocks and dirt in the chute, it was a fun climb. Great weather, beautiful views. We almost lost part of our lunch in one of the many deep cracks at the summit. There were six in our party.
Larry S. and I tagged the summit via Horse Creek in 13 hours round trip. The views from the summit are awesome even for a Sierra peak!
Very enjoyable climb with Vendulka with a combination of snow and rock climbing. Up West Couloir, traverse summit ridge, down East Couloir. Roundtrip 11.5 hrs from Twin Lakes.
Topped out after some awesome random 3rd class scrambling.
Great climb with a couple of fs rangers from Mammoth Lakes
Great climb, numerous times. And going back.
Tagged the summit on the return from Whorl Mountain. Long dayhike out of Twin Lakes.
Left Twin Lakes about 6am by headlamp and summitted around 11:40 There was a light dusting of snow everywhere that made for slippery going. The many use trails are highly confusing. Going up I made the mistake of going left of the main drainage through a huge scree pile at a "step" just below the last trees before the pass. Heading straight up the center of the gulley here there is another use trail which avoids this.
I did not find the summit register. I would like to know if I was a bonehead and missed it or if it has gone missing. There was enough snow that it could have been hidden, but I scoured (what I believe) is the summit pretty carefully.
With Craig Sanford and Gary Stanridge
Beautiful day... Did it twice in 3 days