This mountain was the goal of my first backpacking trip back in 2000. We failed to summit. Then I went back the next year in June and failed to summit again. Then I went back that same summer in August, and finally...I summit. This is a beautiful peak and worth the hike. Now it seems straightforward, but when I first started climbing peaks it was tough.
June 22nd, 2012 - Day hiked from Twin Lakes.
July 11th, 2015 - Day hiked from Twin Lakes.
This is a very fun climb. I especially liked the small hanging meadows in the area below the glacier. These would make for a very relaxing campsite on a two day climb. There was no snow in the couloir at this time of year, but still a great outing.
Did this fine route as a day hike with Bruce Pottenger. We did the 5.9 variation right from the toe of the arete.
With Joe Hansen during search for Fred Classen, Still missing
Interesting late season climb. After crossing the rock-hard Matterhorn glacier (which included jumping over crevasses), Etsuko and I slogged our way up the couloir to the saddle on the East ridge. Couloir was snow free, very loose and unpleasant. From the saddle, we stayed true to the East ridge for some fun Class 4 climbing on perfect granite. This ~200' rock section made our trip worth while. Views from the top and the weather could not have been better!
Descended via East Couloir
Started from Twin Lakes, took the Cleaver Notch route from Horse Creek up to Blacksmith Peak, traversed behind the Sawtooth Ridge to the Doodad, then climbed the west face of Matterhorn and descended the East Couloir route to Horse Creek.
My first ascent of this nice peak. Climbed with bearbnz after work on a cloudless, breezy evening. Drove down from Reno and left Twin Lakes around 1740, summited at 2050. Descent took about the same amount of time due to the lack of moonlight. The north arete was tempting --- I had to practically pull Barry off of it with the accompanying reassurance: "we'll have more time next time"!
2 day ascent from Twin Lakes, camped below pass. snow above 8500' in horse creek canyon - great for a fast moving over what would be blocky talus - never icy (not even early morning). Beautiful summit conditions, sun and not a cloud around.
At last, after three tries. 5200 vertical with great views. Shrinking glacier will be gone in 10 years!!!
Day 1 of the 2002 Mountaineers Challenge. After climbing Whorl Mtn with four others, I tagged this one on the way back. Trip Report.
Missed the right turn out of the East Couloir to the North Arete so ended up in what I think is the Maze area to the right, higher up the Coulior. Maybe 5.4-5.5. Enjoyable day hike.
Beautiful, small summit. Difficult time acceding due to 4-6 inches of new snow over the talus. One step forward, two steps back. Glacier was clear and blue ice, nasty slips coming and going.
Dayhiked the East Couloir alone from Twin Lakes in about 7 hours round trip. Saw very few tourists, none above the glacier.
July 3, 2003. Left Twin Lakes at 5:40pm, arrived on the summit at 8:50 via the East Couloir and East Ridge. Made most of the descent in the dark, took almost as long as the ascent with the darkness. Climbed with ScottyS.
September 6, 2003. Climbed Blacksmith Peak, went over to the Doodad (not via traverse), and then on to Matterhorn Peak with ScottyS. Long but satisfying day.
July 30, 2005. East Couloir with my next-door neighbor. He has lived in Bridgeport for 24 years, looking up at that peak and never venturing up there. Needed to correct that situation.
June 25, 2006. North Arete with Misha Logvinov. Ctc in a day, but a long day. Returned the stolen summit register to the top, probably should have picked a hiking route, but in retrospect, the North Arete was kinda fun.
March 9, 2008. Skinned up from Twin Lakes to the East Couloir, and cramponed to the top of the couloir. Scrambled up to the top in ski boots, and then skied the East Couloir and the rest of the route back to the car.
August '01 SouthEast Slopes
A quicker ascent then I planned, could have hiked out in the afternoon, but decided to camp above Horse Creek Pass. Amazing view of the Sawtooth Ridge.
August 23rd '03 East Couloir
This was part of our search assignment for missing backpacker Fred Classenn. To date, he has not been located.
Ran up from Twin Lakes. There was some hard snow below the route, so I had to pick up a stick for an ice axe. I soloed the fun North Arete in my Kayland Spiders (the only shoes I took), then descended the East Couloir. The summit register is in tatters and is completely full. Car to car in just over 5 hours.
Climbed up from Horse Creek and attempted Whorl and Matterhorn in one day and back to car. Was stopped on Whorl by nasty cliffs just below the summit. Made it up Matterhorn.
To see trip report, click here.
Climbed with mtnartman on the first day of spring. Beautiful weather. This is a really nice winter climb.
Day 1 of the Sierra Emblem Challenge 2001. Excellent weather all day. Day hike from Twin Lakes TH, started 6:15a, returned 3:30p. There was no snow in the East Couloir, making it easy to descend without crampons or axe. It was a bit dicey at the bottom of the couloir getting down the steeper section of the glacier, but I used fallen rocks that were embedded in the glacier as steps to get down this part.
September 24, 2000 via the Southeast slope: This was my second major peak after Mt. Conness, which took 3 tries. This took one, and first with Vladimir. Lot more elevation gain than Conness but with one night backpacking it was easy. We spent almost 100 minutes on the summit chatting and talking on cell phones!!!
Second trip via the North Arete route: August 8, 2004, with Dirk Summers and Mark Thomas. This was my first technical alpine trip, on an exceptional route with wonderful scenery.