Matterhorn Peak Climber's Log

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justing - Aug 2, 2010 3:16 pm Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2010

North Arete  Sucess!

Climbed the North Arete with rhyang in great weather. Interesting route, and on the hike out we were carried home by the sounds of a rather lame cover band playing Honky Tonk Woman and other standards at the Mono Village Resort.


rhyang - Jul 31, 2010 10:43 am Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2010

North Arete  Sucess!

Swapped leads with Justin - I led pitches 2, 4 and 6. Got off-route on pitch 4 and ended up below the Double Dihedral. Justin led back to the N Arete proper on pitch 5, around the chockstone. The last pitch was good and sustained.

Camped at the tarn at ~9800'. Perfect summer day.

Route climbed: West Couloir
Date climbed: 13-June-2010

Snow-camped at 9800' the night before, then did the west couloir the next morning. Fun scrambling, descended third class ledges back to the east couloir, which was about half melted out (and somewhat crowded -- greeted four people who were coming up it :)

Beautiful day, somewhat hot by afternoon. Snow level about 8500-9000', melting fast.

Also did the east couloir (descended via Horse Creek Pass) in May 2008.


jonhersh - Jul 27, 2010 1:25 pm Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2009

SE slope  Sucess!

Had a nice campsite just over Horse Creek Pass. Very smokey on top due to the fires in Yosemite.

pjc30943 - Jul 9, 2010 12:20 am Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2010

North Arete  Sucess!

Awesome camp spot on the moraine, much closer and more convenient than the lake. Currently lots of water all over the place, no need to bring virtually any water on the approach. Good route with lots of loose rock in the first half, but really fun on the second.


boyblue - Jul 1, 2010 7:59 pm Date Climbed: Oct 17, 1982

Horse Creek Pass  Sucess!

With Dave. Camped on the pass (very chilly!). Windy, clear and cold on top. Infinite views.


mrchad9 - Jun 13, 2010 8:06 pm Date Climbed: Sep 19, 2008

Horse Creek Pass  Sucess!

Up from Horse Creek Pass the first day of an overnight with Whorl. One of my favorite weekends in the Sierra. Camped at the lake south of the pass, and climbed Matterhorn's southeast slopes that afternoon. Great views down Spiller Canyon.


Darren9 - May 24, 2010 1:27 am Date Climbed: May 22, 2010

Winter in May  Sucess!

Climbed the East Couloir with SMG, temps of 18 degrees at mid-day. Brrr! Great finish to the summit with some snow, rock and tiny bit of ice. Rewarding mountain and view.


ScottHanson - May 23, 2010 11:55 am Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2007

SE Slope  Sucess!

Day 1 of Sierra Challenge 2007. Hiked with David Wright to Horse Creek Pass. Then headed up SE slope. Ran into Gordon Andelin, and he showed me final route to summit.


tyler4588 - May 22, 2010 2:05 am Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2009

Southeast  Sucess!

Camped at Matterhorn Lake and climbed the southeast side to the top. Beautiful campsite, beautiful summit. A bit sloggy.


mtncorg - Jan 14, 2010 11:22 pm

southeast side  Sucess!

A long dayhike and you may have it to yourself. Good views into a part of Yosemite that few ever see.


SKI - Dec 30, 2009 8:35 pm Date Climbed: Jun 5, 2009

East Couloir  Sucess!

Seen it many times while backpacking. The view is a bit different from the summit!


Snowslogger - Dec 30, 2009 4:07 pm Date Climbed: Jul 14, 1986

Longer than needed  Sucess!

Fun climb up, although I had to do my only self arrest ever in the snow gully (waited too long to put crampons on). One of our party bonked on the way out, and we ended up coming out in the middle of the night - not fun.


A-Lex - Nov 24, 2009 1:14 pm

North Arete  Sucess!

Great climb! Ended up climbing part of the N Arete and then the last twoish pitches of the double dihedral thing. All the climbing was really fun!


haishan - Sep 27, 2009 6:35 pm Date Climbed: May 24, 1998

Nice peak  Sucess!

E couloir and some interesting snow-covered ledges up the east face... skied out the next day in a big El Nino snowstorm.


sardude - Sep 23, 2009 6:39 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2006

did it  Sucess!

West face, I think. Did it w/ Paul


granjero - Sep 8, 2009 6:26 pm Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2004

East Couloir  Sucess!

Holy slog!
However, the ski run in winter/spring down this is quite fun!


granjero - Sep 8, 2009 6:25 pm Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2006

North Arete  Sucess!

Nice route.


murraymcleod - Aug 19, 2009 7:39 pm Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2009

Not quite...

Didn't quite make it as we ran out of time...Climbed with packs from Matterhorn Canyon to Burro Pass, then ditched packs for the to within 200' of summit and my parntner wouldn't go further, and we still had to return to packs and hike towards Mule Pass. And the climb seemed more like Class 3 at top, which I didn't want to attempt alone (I'm old!). Oh well...seems the story of my life with climbing lately...unless the base of a peak is near starting point, the approach will take too much time and wears me out! Oh to be young again!


MTNTime - Aug 3, 2009 12:15 am Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2009

Daytripping  Sucess!

Great fun dayhike - after a Buckeye soak, and sleeping under a lone juniper, we sped up Horse canyon until the trail disappeared, struggled a bit keeping focused on the trail so ended up sidehilling scree before gaining the saddle. Excellent scramble (good footing) up the east ridge to the top, with hazy, thunder threatening views. Hail and rain on the way down to the saddle, but little lightning. 9 hours car to car, and oh what a day!


WML - Jul 30, 2009 1:38 am Date Climbed: Jun 5, 2009

East Couloir  Sucess!

Very fun route, would make an excellent ski descent. Climbed it in a whiteout.

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