Medlicott Dome Climber's Log

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Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Sep 3, 2017 5:15 pm Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2017

Goldmember- 100’-5.9****  Sucess!

From the top of the first pitch of Shagadelic, climb 4th class up low angled sloping ramps up and right. Stop at the base of the dike and build a gear belay (C4#.5-1). This is a sustained and possible sandbagged 5.9 (or don’t climb it in the heat of the day). The guide references the dike as “so slick…reminiscent of climber polished limestone”. The crux is the first few clips off the deck. You can get some gear (nut) after that and then mantel up and continue climbing the right to left leaning dike clipping bolts for the remainder. With double ropes you can get back to the top of Shagadelic’s 1st pitch.

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Sep 3, 2017 5:13 pm Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2017

Shagadelic- 4 Pitches-5.8****  Sucess!

This appears to be a popular route. The start is on the right side of an obvious pillar against the wall. Snow can linger here until late into July. We also were approached by a bear here in 2017. He/she waited patiently to scope out our packs once we commenced climbing leading one to believe it was using climbers packs for food. Therefore we hauled our packs up the first pitch (5.7). It starts with a nice but short finger crack and then enters the wider corner of the right side which can be wet and chossy. Pull out of the corner onto bolts on the left face to the top of the pillar and fixed rap station. The next two pitches are all bolted, up and left. Climb sustained 5.7 through mostly chicken heads through ten bolts to a fixed rap anchor. More of the same for another ten bolts to yet another anchor (5.8). The last pitch has no rap, so either commit to walking off or down climbing (we down climbed it no worries). It is all gear, a light single rack will do. Route find your wall up through a series of sloping walls/roofs trending right (5.7). Double 60m ropes get you down from the top of pitch 3 in 3 raps. If you stop atop the pillar, you can climb Goldmember (5.9).

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Sep 3, 2017 5:10 pm Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2017

Super Chicken- 3 Pitches-5.9****  Sucess!

The guide has Super Chicken listed as 5.9**** or 5.9X****. Basically there is no reason to do the 3rd pitch. Not because of the X as it is only 5.7X to a fixed anchor in the middle of the wall (terminus) but more to do with the fact you can easily combine Super Chicken after its 2nd pitch with Chicken Little to the top of the formation, combining two routes at the same grade for a decent length climb. Super Chicken starts just left of the Yawn, one of my favorite routes in Tuolumne. The Yawn is the most notable landmark on this side of Medlicott Dome. Just down and left are several trees. Climb 5th class up to a wide crack/easy roof. Pull into the corner above (5.8) and onto the ledge up and right. Climb the far right option (5.9) to enter the tall, fun and easy hand corner crack (5.8). Continue up to its end and face climb through a single pro bolt, making the crux move of the route but traversing up and left to the fixed rap anchor. You need a 70m rope to make this in one pitch and if you do not use proper extensions, will incur a lot of rope drag at the crux. You can avoid this by doing a short first pitch or stopping at a small ledge well below the bolt and crux move. To access Chicken Little, traverse left almost 200’ to a relatively dirty crack on the left side of the ledge. This is a left to right slanting crack left of the small tree (2017).

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Sep 3, 2017 5:04 pm Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2017

Chicken Little- 5 Pitches-5.9R**  Sucess!

The best use of Chicken Little is to extend Super Chicken to the top of the formation, making for a decent length 5.9 climb. There really is not much run out in this route despite the guide giving it an R. The topo shows it on the 2nd to last pitch at 5.7R but it felt more like 5th class and there seemed to be ample pro. After doing the 5.6 traverse off of Super Chicken over to the base of the left to right slanting dirty crack, start up what is mostly a 5.7 corner. Pay attention if you want to stay on route. You are suppose to pull out of the crack (5.8) about mid height onto another crack in the face out left that has several pitons in it. I missed that (topo is not all that clear upon quick glance) and continued up the obvious corner which, according to the topo, turns 5.10 to the base of a hand crack going up the left side of a large block. I did not feel this finish was 5.10, felt more like 5.9, but more importantly, you will need a 70m rope to avoid simul climbing to the base of that block where you will have to build an anchor. The pitch is suppose to reach the top of the block but even if you angle it different, I do not see that happening. I liked the natural finish I did with a little simul climbing or 70m rope. A bit chossy, but fun. Do a short pitch up the left side of the block to a large ledge. Then a long easy pitch (5.8) until you feel the need to stop. And one final 4th class rope length to the summit right where the Yawn ends up.

haishan

haishan - Mar 13, 2013 2:37 pm Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2012

Excellent Smithers and Shagadelic  Sucess!

Excellent... most worthy of carrying Monty Burns' legacy. We came back a few days later for Shagadelic so we could properly "summit" the dome.

muajee

muajee - Oct 7, 2012 7:10 pm Date Climbed: Sep 21, 2012

Shagadelic  Sucess!

My first day back on climbing after the injury...

Following only. Before this, we did Golfer's Route on Low Profile Dome. Tuolumne was amazingly peaceful and quiet. Loved it like this. :)


Finished the entire route and descended from the top and back. A very nice walk!!

mrchad9

mrchad9 - Jun 26, 2012 1:53 pm Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2012

Side Trip  Sucess!

Over from other peaks in the area on an afternoon hike, watched the sunset from here and Mariuolumne Dome, so back in the dark.

Bob Burd

Bob Burd - Jun 17, 2012 12:49 am Date Climbed: Jun 6, 2012

East Slope  Sucess!

Traversed over from Cathedral and Eichorn, continued to Fairview Dome. Trip Report

fatdad

fatdad - Oct 22, 2009 3:16 pm

Ciebola (5.10c)  Sucess!

Beautiful route up those trademark Tuolumne knobs.

bfrench

bfrench - Jul 17, 2009 11:27 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2009

Shagadelic  Sucess!

Great route.

rhyang

rhyang - Jul 5, 2009 10:33 am Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2009

Shagadelic .. mostly

Climbed with my friend K. Chaltikian - he led first and third pitches (5.8); I led the second pitch (5.7). Fun knob climbing on the 2nd & 3rd pitches.

We rapped off with double 60m ropes since it was getting late, and the last pitch didn't sound all that great. There was still some snow at the base. We had wanted to do Aqua Knobby (5.9) over on Pywiack Dome that afternoon, but it looked busy ..

Tom Fralich

Tom Fralich - Aug 15, 2008 2:22 am Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2008

Super Chicken and Shagadelic  Sucess!

Mary and I climbed a few routes here on a 2-day trip to Tuolumne. We had some trouble finding the start of Super Chicken (5.9, 2 pitches)...I was expecting a much bigger corner system. There were some stout crack moves in the middle section and the face moves to gain the anchor were pretty exciting. We rapped down, had a snack, and then climbed Shagadelic (5.8, 4 pitches) to the top. Sustained climbing on pitches 2 and 3 with great views towards Half Dome. We hiked off from the top, past a beautiful hidden lake, and down to Cathedral Lake where we picked up the trail back to the car.

cp0915

cp0915 - May 29, 2007 11:25 am Date Climbed: May 26, 2007

E Slope  Sucess!

Traversed east slope from Cathedral Peak. Peak #2 of 5 that day. A really nice day in Yosemite.

Chisholm

Chisholm - Aug 30, 2006 3:47 am Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2006

Shaggadelic 5.8  Sucess!

Very fun and very well bolted. Good intro to Tuolumne climbing

Chisholm

Chisholm - Aug 26, 2006 6:10 am Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2006

Goldmember 5.9  Sucess!

Great climb. Follow a dike with an easy roof.

Rob

Rob - Sep 9, 2004 8:11 pm

Route Climbed: Ciebola Date Climbed: 2000  Sucess!

Slippery climbing on Ciebola! 5.10b 2 pitches.

Did some other sport routes there as well.

Misha

Misha - Sep 9, 2004 3:56 pm

Route Climbed: Piss Easier (5.6 R) Date Climbed: September 4, 2004  Sucess!

Cool and easy multipitch route that deserves more traffic. Etsuko and I led it on a casual Saturday afternoon. Took us about 4 hours to reach the top from the car. Incredible views!

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