Mendel Couloir ( right couloir )

Mendel Couloir ( right couloir )

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 37.17500°N / 118.68°W
Additional Information Route Type: Technical Ice and Rock
Additional Information Time Required: A long day
Additional Information Difficulty: III, 5.6, AI2, WI3
Sign the Climber's Log


The usual approach is the Lamarck Col cross country trail. See the R. J. Secor guide for a detailed description.

Route Description

The Mendel Couloir starts from the glacier below the North Face. Cross the bershrund, the left side maybe the easiest, and climb the snow / ice slope, belaying from rocks where possible. Enter the right hand couloir and follow it to the top. If climbing with more than 2 climbers total, be extremely cautious of climber caused rock and ice fall. From the top of the couloir, either follow the Northwest Ridge ( 5.6 ) or rappel into the scree gully to the west and follow the Southwest Central Chute to the summit ( class 4 ).

Essential Gear

Ice hammer and axe, crampons, ice screws, and medium rack including cams. A few pitons ( blades, baby angles ) are always good insurance.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

Viewing: 1-4 of 4

poorboy44 - Sep 14, 2005 12:20 am - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

I feel obliged to mention something about the descent. We tried to follow the E Ridge to the Mendel/Darwin col. This is not the correct way to go. We ended up having to do some rappels to get down off the E Ridge to the Darwin Glacier. I think the correct way to go is to head down off the ridge via some 3rd class well before the col. Maybe someone who got the descent right can offer some specifics?


asmrz - Jul 10, 2015 7:01 pm - Hasn't voted

Lamarck Col approach is best

Just wanted to mention that Lamarck Col approach is the best way to get to the Mendel Couloirs. There is now (2015) good use trail all the way to the Col, something we could only dream off in the 80s. Start at the North Lake TH. Take the Lamarck Lakes branch off Piute Pass Trail. The correct way to cross the Lamarck Col is on the extreme left side as you look at the Col(the whole saddle). There are many incorrectly drawn routes up the Col on the Internet. Again, the extreme left side by a small triangular peaklet is the correct way to cross the Col. Class 2, snow/ice of the snow field can be easily avoided by boulder hopping. BTW Regarding the above descent comment, I have rapped off the back side of Mendel to the slope above the closest (small) lake at the base of Mt Darwin. If I remember correctly, there were three raps with 50 meter rope to reach terra firma.


Darren9 - Aug 22, 2017 11:41 am - Hasn't voted

Conditions - gone

After monitoring this climb and waiting many years for the ice to form I finally made the trek, anticipating it to be in great shape at the end of summer following an epic winter. To my disappointment, both Mendel right and Ice Nine are completely melted out - bone dry top to bottom. This was after one of the biggest winters in a decade or so, with snow still persisting in places it hasn't been in many years. But not in these routes, unfortunately. So the modern report is this - the only way these couloirs can be climbed nowadays is either in early season, on snow, or only after many heavy winters in an row - a situation that is not likely to occur again.

Craig Peer

Craig Peer - Nov 22, 2017 3:15 pm - Hasn't voted

a shame

that's a shame to hear Darren.

Viewing: 1-4 of 4



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