midi510 - Jun 26, 2020 11:38 pm Date Climbed: Sep 6, 1999
Solo'd the Right Couloir
Climbed the Right Couloir on Labor Day 1999. Had a blast, but was a bit sporty on the water ice. I did't plan on summiting, so consider my ascent successful. I traversed to the low point between Mendel and Darwin and descended to the glacier and traversed back to Lamarck Col and back to the car at North Lake. Long day. I should have summited and descended the E face. I think it would have been faster.
Darren9 - Aug 22, 2017 11:37 am Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2017
Conditions - gone
After monitoring this climb and waiting many years for the ice to form I finally made the trek, anticipating it to be in great shape at the end of summer following an epic winter. To my disappointment, both Mendel right and Ice Nine are completely melted out - bone dry top to bottom.
This was after one of the biggest winters in a decade or so, with snow still persisting in places it hasn't been in many years. But not in these routes, unfortunately. So the modern report is this - the only way these couloirs can be climbed nowadays is either in early season, on snow, or only after many heavy winters in an row - a situation that is not likely to occur again.
So sad. I'm glad I got to do it in 1999. I'm hoping summer weather conditions play a big part and there might be something there this coming fall. I want to do it with my son. We did V Notch and Polemonium last Oct. I'll run back for recon one day late summer.
bkrause - May 18, 2015 9:56 pm Date Climbed: Nov 7, 1983
With Alois
Thank you Alois. It was a great climb with a layer of fresh powder snow covering the ice. The crux was in prime shape. We never did find the fixed pins on the right hand wall below the crux. My favorite memory is climbing back up to Lamarck Col in the pitch darkness after a perfect ascent in full conditions.
asmrz - Nov 23, 2014 8:52 pm Date Climbed: Nov 4, 1983
One of the Sierra's best
Bill Krause and I climbed the right couloir in full conditions in early November 1983. There were 10 pitches of solid ice plus about 80 feet of mixed ground topping out. This was the first of many wonderful trips Bill Krause and I did over the next 30 years. If you read this Bill, thanks for all the great fun!
mhauss - Jun 25, 2014 10:25 pm Date Climbed: May 28, 2014
Mendel Right
As mentioned before, the climb mainly consisted of snow on top of rock. We were not able to find the proper descent route, and ended up rappelling and down-climbing to get back to the glacier.
Vitaliy M. - Aug 27, 2012 3:38 pm Date Climbed: May 19, 2012
Fun
Fun climb. Good ice. With some loose snow on some ice sections, which made it more exciting than it should be.
atavist - May 23, 2012 1:22 pm Date Climbed: May 20, 2012
Mendel couloir
Climbed with Kevin and Moosetracks. Nice and easy hike in on Saturday but it was a long Sunday. 3 roped pitches with about half on ice, half on snow and rock.
chris_r - Oct 31, 2011 7:10 pm Date Climbed: Oct 3, 1998
Mendel R
Good conditions, straightforward. I'd probably call the single "technical" move on the rock pitch 5.5. Car to car, 14 hours. Some loose crap in the upper gully.
Damn, I took 16 hours car to car, but I wasted time traversing from the top of the route to the low point of the S ridge and descending to the Darwin glacier, then traversing back to Lamarck Col. I was pretty beat.
kovarpa - Oct 19, 2010 2:35 am Date Climbed: Oct 16, 2010
Interesting
climb, worth doing. 7 pitches with Justin, some ice low and mostly snow covered rock higher up. Views of Evolution Basin from the top were awesome!
justing - Oct 18, 2010 10:17 pm Date Climbed: Oct 18, 2010
Mendel right
Climbed with Pavel. Original intention was Ice 9, but decided on the right due to conditions. Had some ice down low and then some fun mixed snow/rock up high.
lavaka - Sep 27, 2007 12:42 am Date Climbed: Dec 14, 2005
bad conditions
In Dec '05, my partner and I tried to do Ice Nine, but when we came into view of the couloirs, neither looked in shape, so we opted for the right one instead. It was mainly snow on top of rock, and very sketchy. On the descent, couldn't find the downclimb from the ridge, so rapp'ed. Climbing back up to our camp on Lamarck Col took forever, due to deep powder.
midi510 - Jun 26, 2020 11:38 pm Date Climbed: Sep 6, 1999
Solo'd the Right CouloirClimbed the Right Couloir on Labor Day 1999. Had a blast, but was a bit sporty on the water ice. I did't plan on summiting, so consider my ascent successful. I traversed to the low point between Mendel and Darwin and descended to the glacier and traversed back to Lamarck Col and back to the car at North Lake. Long day. I should have summited and descended the E face. I think it would have been faster.
Darren9 - Aug 22, 2017 11:37 am Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2017
Conditions - goneAfter monitoring this climb and waiting many years for the ice to form I finally made the trek, anticipating it to be in great shape at the end of summer following an epic winter. To my disappointment, both Mendel right and Ice Nine are completely melted out - bone dry top to bottom.
This was after one of the biggest winters in a decade or so, with snow still persisting in places it hasn't been in many years. But not in these routes, unfortunately. So the modern report is this - the only way these couloirs can be climbed nowadays is either in early season, on snow, or only after many heavy winters in an row - a situation that is not likely to occur again.
midi510 - Jun 26, 2020 11:43 pm
Re: Conditions - goneSo sad. I'm glad I got to do it in 1999. I'm hoping summer weather conditions play a big part and there might be something there this coming fall. I want to do it with my son. We did V Notch and Polemonium last Oct. I'll run back for recon one day late summer.
bkrause - May 18, 2015 9:56 pm Date Climbed: Nov 7, 1983
With AloisThank you Alois. It was a great climb with a layer of fresh powder snow covering the ice. The crux was in prime shape. We never did find the fixed pins on the right hand wall below the crux. My favorite memory is climbing back up to Lamarck Col in the pitch darkness after a perfect ascent in full conditions.
asmrz - Nov 23, 2014 8:52 pm Date Climbed: Nov 4, 1983
One of the Sierra's bestBill Krause and I climbed the right couloir in full conditions in early November 1983. There were 10 pitches of solid ice plus about 80 feet of mixed ground topping out. This was the first of many wonderful trips Bill Krause and I did over the next 30 years. If you read this Bill, thanks for all the great fun!
mhauss - Jun 25, 2014 10:25 pm Date Climbed: May 28, 2014
Mendel RightAs mentioned before, the climb mainly consisted of snow on top of rock. We were not able to find the proper descent route, and ended up rappelling and down-climbing to get back to the glacier.
Vitaliy M. - Aug 27, 2012 3:38 pm Date Climbed: May 19, 2012
FunFun climb. Good ice. With some loose snow on some ice sections, which made it more exciting than it should be.
atavist - May 23, 2012 1:22 pm Date Climbed: May 20, 2012
Mendel couloirClimbed with Kevin and Moosetracks. Nice and easy hike in on Saturday but it was a long Sunday. 3 roped pitches with about half on ice, half on snow and rock.
chris_r - Oct 31, 2011 7:10 pm Date Climbed: Oct 3, 1998
Mendel RGood conditions, straightforward. I'd probably call the single "technical" move on the rock pitch 5.5. Car to car, 14 hours. Some loose crap in the upper gully.
midi510 - Jun 26, 2020 11:50 pm
Re: Mendel RDamn, I took 16 hours car to car, but I wasted time traversing from the top of the route to the low point of the S ridge and descending to the Darwin glacier, then traversing back to Lamarck Col. I was pretty beat.
kovarpa - Oct 19, 2010 2:35 am Date Climbed: Oct 16, 2010
Interestingclimb, worth doing. 7 pitches with Justin, some ice low and mostly snow covered rock higher up. Views of Evolution Basin from the top were awesome!
justing - Oct 18, 2010 10:17 pm Date Climbed: Oct 18, 2010
Mendel rightClimbed with Pavel. Original intention was Ice 9, but decided on the right due to conditions. Had some ice down low and then some fun mixed snow/rock up high.
lavaka - Sep 27, 2007 12:42 am Date Climbed: Dec 14, 2005
bad conditionsIn Dec '05, my partner and I tried to do Ice Nine, but when we came into view of the couloirs, neither looked in shape, so we opted for the right one instead. It was mainly snow on top of rock, and very sketchy. On the descent, couldn't find the downclimb from the ridge, so rapp'ed. Climbing back up to our camp on Lamarck Col took forever, due to deep powder.