The traverse from Disappointment was much easier than I'd expected, and the NE Face was straightforward as well (although much looser than I'd expected given the popularity of the route). Snow almost the whole way down to Finger Lake meant we were treated to a luxurious and pretty expedient return, 2hr45 back to the car from the summit.
The traverse from Disappointment took a couple of hours, and involved several ups and downs via the various chutes and aretes that separate the two peaks, but as I recall, only a couple of places were class 4.
Made good time on the approach. There is a nice use trail from Brainard Lake up to Finger Lake that we found by accident. From there the moraine was mostly snow free with a few low angle patches. A short section of snow still covers the entrance to Secors Chute and can be done without an axe. The chimney was fun, solid class 4 on a beautiful summit day. Just over 12 hours car to summit and back.
A last-minute decision to head up to the Sierras to get 14er #6. Lots of fun, easy and sustained class 3 climbing with some loose rock thrown in too. The summit block was great, significant exposure but an awesome view of the palisades. No snow until the MP/NCP glaciers, but the top of the morraine was definitely covered more than what appears to be normal for this time of year. No crampons needed to get to the ledge leading into Secor's chute, but the last 30 feet there would have been really, really rough without an ax. Mosquitoes were in FULL FORCE from Willow Lake all the way up until the glaciers. Fortunately there was enough hail on the way back to keep them away for an hour or two. 17 hours from trailhead and back at a relaxed pace with quite a few breaks.
Approached Secor's Chute without crampons; tricky, but doable.
My first attempt and summit on a 14'er. Several other groups were going up at the same time, which ment, "ROCK!" being yelled from time to time, but a good climb overall.
Beautiful climb and very warm. Still plenty of snow on the approach. The summit climb had patchy spots of snow, but there was plenty of room to get around them. My 1st 14.
Climbed with Andre and Robert under sunny Sierra skies. Made a rte error as we topped out at a U notch which was not the summit. As we had left Robert at the top of the glacier we did not attempt to reach the true summit.
Climbed solo after my partner started leaking oil just below the glacier. Excellent climb!
Climbed this route with John Fischer, Allan Bard, and two clients as part of a Palisade School of Mountaineering custom guided tour of the South Fork of Big Pine Creek. I was the sherpa. In return for carrying the beer and other goodies, I was allowed to tag along on the climb. The weather was overcast, and turned into heavy snow just as we reached the summit. Our view from the top was limited to a few hundred feet. Too bad, this is such an awesome place. The storm dropped over a foot of snow. The next morning dawned clear and warm. Watched in awe as dozens of wet snow avalanches swept the faces of this and the surrounding peaks. Unforgettable.
Three members of the Ghoulwe Mountaineering Club: Dave Johnson, Charlie Downs & John Wettstein, summited Middle Palisade via the NE Face at 9:00 AM.
My first fourteener. I made it. A great day.
Fantastic. Though a near-epic.
Beautiful place. Carry plenty of mosquito repellant. One of my best trips. Best class 3 climb.
This was a great climb! The red stained rock is crumbly, so be careful and check your holds. The rest of the rock is great. Luckily we were the only ones on the mountain otherwise rockfall could have been a problem. I would advise helmets.
Did the route as part of a ski tour. We crossed South Fork Pass from the west the day before and bivied in some rocks near the base of the glacier.
We had a large group, so managing the risk of rockfall while climbing was the biggest challenge.
Entered the couloir via a short ramp coming up from the glacier on the NE side--there are some belay slings there, so it sees some traffic. Went up the left fork of the couloir.
A few hours for a fast group bivied near the glacier--took us longer but bivy to bivy it took only 8 hours, with plenty of time on the summit ridge for pics.
Recommended for small groups with good class 3 skills only.
I climbed this route with SummitPost members Misha, Etsuko, Michael G. and Andrew. A fantastic climb on a fantastic peak. Michael and myself went on tho climb Norman Clyde Peak (Mid Pals neighbor) the same day. Tent to tent, 12 hours.
Climbed this with Mark Goebel. This route defines class 3 climbing.
dayhike from trailhead. got on the ledge system leading to secor's chute by going through the moat between the glacier and the rock face. finding the ledge system was straightforward. however, instead of getting on secor's chute, i ended up to the left (on the way up) of
the ridge defining the left side of secor's chute. did not realize my mistake at that time and climbed up this chute (still class 3). when the ridge my right (left ridge defining secor's chute) started to run out, i found myself on the correct route again (after a couple of class 4ish moves). met with two others near the summit. awesome peak and route.
Third time up. One Mt. left for completing all the Cal. 14ers'for the third time. Very sunny and windy. Met a few Japanesse climber that turn around half way up because of the exposure. Very tricky dodging rocks from them. Hmmm!