What a lovely mountain.
Second Vitaliy's sentiments...
Day hike from Glacier Lodge. Took the chute (climber's) left of Secor's and got a little confused. Eventually dropped into the correct chute to finish. Pretty fun climb. Didn't need axe or crampons, but poles helped. I will say that the red-rock band that leads up from the moraine and into the main chute looked pretty sketchy; I think the class 3 ledge from the glacier was a better choice (and it's not too hard to find).
I meant to take the Secor route, but ended up far left of the summit (~200 vertical feet below summit and ~450 horizontal feet from summit) with not enough water to attempt a descent and ascent via differt route. Mistake I made was early on the secor route going too far left and ending on wrong side of little ridge.
Real reason for post is that I lost a helmet and black mesh bag with contents between Finger Lake and Middle Palisades glacier. If found please contact me at Hoysch@hotmail.com or 858-312-6020. I can describe contents of black mesh bag to verify that it is mine.
I made the exact same mistake yesterday, but somehow found a way around the ridge on the right and dropped down into Secor's to finish the route. Sorry, I didn't see any of your things at Finger Lake; hope you get them back.
With Dave McLaughlin. Excellent weather and conditions. Even the bergshrund was a breeze. Very enjoyable route and an outstanding view.
Davi Rivas and David Stillman via the East Face from Finger Lake.
...with Bill Kells, Marc Allen, Nisheeth Srivastava and Patrick Sanan, on 17-19 Sep' 2009, via the Northeast Face (class 3)
With fluffy snow forcing me to the east side of the face. I pretty much thought this was 4th class. I was glad to find Secor's 3rd class ledge exit on the descent.
Except for heading up the wrong chute first, a wonderful climb. Camped 2 nights at the tarn above Finger Lake.
Soloed this back in the early 90s. Bivied at a nice tarn about Finger Lake, tagged the summit and hiked out the following day. Good adventure getting across that moat.
Dayhike via the NE Face route with 3 others. We caught alpenglow views from Finger Lake, and we never saw a single cloud the entire day. No one else was on the route, and there was negligible wind on the summit. AND we were back down in time for dinner and beer.
3rd class route w/ paul.
See Bill's post below.
NE Face with Tommi, Rob, Stefan, and Marina. We opted for the glacier start which required an exposed step across the 'shrund.
Did as a day hike. Outstanding views and weather made this a great climb. Saw 4 other climbers on the NE Face and only 1 had a helmet, pretty crazy with all the loose rock.
Camped at the beautiful Finger Lake Friday night, then started hiking the mountain Saturday morning via the NE face. Summitted around 11:45 with gorgeous weather and views! Great climb!
We took the sketchy-ass Farquar Route, blindly ignoring Secor's warnings about "lose rock", "easy to get off route", and "for experienced climbers only". It was pretty bad, not so much because of exposure or loose rock or difficult route-finding, but because of a huge buildup of all three. Still, we found what I am pretty sure was the correct route, and made the top.
Really enjoyed this climb, the approach was a bear, especially in the moraine section, but the climb itself (NE Face) is absolutely spectacular. Thanks Jared and John for the great route finding, I'm glad I didn't cash in the chips at 13k. Little long for a day hike, back in LA at 4am...
Started up the 3rd class ledge, but turned uphill too quickly and missed Secor's chute. Not too big of a problem, but the top steepens to 4th class for about 20 feet before joining the main chute.
Went car-to-car from Glacier Lodge in 10.5 hrs, 5.5 to the summit. Finger Lake is gorgeous, and the summit is cool, but the rest of the route was unpleasant.