Trouble at 5:00 AM when I couldn't find then trailhead. I had no idea South Fork and North Fork started on the same spot. I followed the direction along the Glacier Lodge, got to the creek, had to take shoes and socks off to cross it, when on the other side there was a beautiful bridge over. It took 45 minutes to find the trail (but I'll write a trip report about that.) Thanks go to summitpost's Cab and his topo map; I was able to get to the mountain all right without wasting time. Lucky me, at the top of the moraine there were 4 hikers who pointed me to the elusive ledge (they never got on it.) A few difficult moves and got past the ledge and on the mountain. Summited at 12:50PM. Dark heavy clouds made me be quick up there. Back at the car at 7:00PM. I consider this one most difficult day hike I've done so far due to the infinity field of boulders from Finger Lake to the base of the mountain.
We left Glacier Lodge at 4:20 a.m. We were looking for the "hidden ramp" described by Secor, but had trouble finding it because the glacier has retreated about 20' that spot, now requiring a class 4 to low class 5 climb up to the ledge in question. After that, route finding was a simple affair. I think we spent over an hour on the summit, the views and weather were so good. On the way down I managed to lose my glasses down the crack between the glacier and the mountain, so I had to hike out with my prescription sunglasses until it got dark, fortunately we were on trail by this time, so it was easy to follow it without my glasses.
The whole route has long since melted out, this drought year.
Climbed the Red Band to the main chute. Followed the groove diagonally up and to the right side of the main chute, then went up and left, staying left at the two branches on the way up. 30 feet below the summit, traverse on the east side of the summit towards the left to avoid the class 5 boulders of the direct route. In the main chute, the left side is more solid, but class 4-ish, and is a better route to avoid rockfall when other climbers are below. Summit register is bolted to a rock 5 feet below summit.
W/ Scott & Yukon Jack
Training hike up South pass, with over night on the ridge at about +13K to see how I would sleep, not good! Traversed over in the morning and down climbed the standard route to the glacier.
My virgin trip to Middle Palisade Glacier. Began route by jumping from snow to Class 4 pedestal. Hit summit 65 minutes later. Absolutely loved this climb - like a granite ladder!
Alpine start, good conditions, ascended via standard route. Wandered into some stout fourth on ascent up both chutes, route was obvious on descent, should have paid more attention, but the spice was enjoyed. Took a shortcut(probably added 1+ hr. to descent) through the tarn-finger division and around the SE side of finger (NW doesn't work). Car-to-car in a little under 12 taking it easy. Highly recommended!
The only way we found the start to Secor's chute was with GPS coordinates. River crossing was really low this year so we rock-hopped accross. Camped by a tarn 11,300 ft up with strong winds. All in all a great climb in a beautiful wilderness area.
than never to sign this thing
Climbed with my soon to be wife and had an absolutely great time. The third class is truly epic. Sounds like an oxymoron. Beautiful.
From Finger Lake. We started the route via the loose, red chute (as opposed to Secor's chute). After that we decided the left branch of the main chute looked more promising so we took it. The summit was only a few hundred feet to the left of the top of this chute. We couldn't find the summit register.
Overnight hike from Glacier Lodge with three friends. Just before we crossed the bridge across the North Fork, we encountered a rattlesnake but had no other excitement reaching camp at Finger Lake.
Got an early start the next morning and had no trouble negotiating the boulders to the start of the route. We went out onto the glacier for 50 vertical feet or so (used crampons and axe, but probably not necessary) and easily found the ramp leading to the chute. We stepped over the 1-foot wide gap onto solid rock and then up the ramp to the chute. Climbing the chute was great fun with lots of steep, solid rock that didn't feel very exposed. After summitting, we returned the same way, knocking some rocks down in the process. Don't forget your helmet on this one! Definitely one of my favorite Sierra climbs to date.
This was the peak that got me started into mountaineering. Super steep and great exposure! I loved this climb.
Via glacier approach with Alvin W, camped at the base on the way back. CA 14er #12 for me, 13 for Alvin
With my 14 year old son, my neighbor and his 13 year old son, set out on June 23 and backpacked up to the the tarn just below the Middle Palisade Glacier. Reasonably tough hike, especially the last 1.5 miles of boulder hopping and talus sliding. We left at 5:30am the next morning and enjoyed the sun rise just as we headed up the main moraine. The glacier was still pretty firm, but we made it to the ledge with hiking boots and poles. No problem getting on the ledge, no gap yet. Very enjoyable climbing the entire way up without another party on the mountain (or anywhere in the area for that matter). About 2/3 of the way up, I led the group into a right chute when I should have gone left. Some class 4 in this section that had me concerned about the trip down. At the top of this chute we topped out on a "false" summit (a great summit on its own with a flat top about the size of a kitchen table, very cool), we then down climbed from here and completed the climb from the "correct" chute. Back in camp for dinner that night and then the long walk out on the 25th. Truly an amazing adventure. Our two teens knocked off the adventure with ease.
Great day with Jed and Chad.
Great climb, one month after knee micro surgery
Fun 3rd class! Second day of a two week backpacking trip.
Attempted with Ezra Danciu. Couldn't find the entry chute and glacier had receded way back from the rock being so late in the year. Looks awesome and will definitely try again. Next time I'll camp at Finger Lake though. It's a long haul to make car to car in a day.